tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15318049739199394872024-03-13T04:47:48.750-07:00Hank's Bodysurfing BlogUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger230125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-60297897209421506832018-04-07T21:58:00.000-07:002018-04-07T21:58:53.090-07:00Hiatus Interruptus<div style="text-align: justify;">
I suspect that this is the longest hiatus in posting since I began this blog. It's April 7 and, irrespective of some exceptional demands upon my time, unrelated to surfing, trying to intervene, I cannot allow my belated first surf session of 2018 to pass undocumented.</div>
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As has been broadly bemoaned within the Southern California surf community, this has been the most miserable stretch of winter surf in recent memory. Applied to a weekend bodysurfer, dependent on swell, tide, weather and winds to cooperate within two, fixed days amongst each seven, the implication has been three dry months. I don't think that's happened, or even close, since I initiated this blog nearly 10 years ago. </div>
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The periods when I would post nearly every week, having surfed, seem a distant memory. Those who used to check this space regularly on Sunday or Monday have, no doubt, long ago discontinued. </div>
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Throughout, though, as the stress which comes from lack of water time gradually accumulated, I knew it always just a matter of time.</div>
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I'd love to say that the session to end this unprecedented drought was epic. It wasn't. In too many ways, the forecasters missed this, at least from what we got in the Park (San Clemente State Park) this morning. The swell, forecast for 3 - 4 feet, which should translate to a regular shoulder to head high wave, was well short of that. A 66-degree water temperature reading at the San Clemente Pier certainly didn't reflect the 60 or so degree water into which we swam out. On the up side, the "questionable" winds for the morning were non-existent, presenting a glassy surface.</div>
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Nonetheless, though the waves were only waist to chest high, the Park was clean, peaky, glassy, almost empty and ... fun! We swam out down by LG1, south of the Main Peak, where it seemed to be a little more consistent. Fun though the actual, real-time, surf was, through much of the hour-long session, I kept seeing, in my mind's eye as we awaited the arrival of sets, past sessions at that spot. </div>
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Glassy, grey mornings with with strangely gentle, though well-overhead, sets, tag-teamed by a pod of a dozen bodysurfers. The Golden Triangle crew...EY_\, Hugh, Crawdaddy, Kahuna, MuDShArK, Da Arm, Too Tall, the Real Deal...and occasional visitors - Bret Belyea from SD, the late #9 Rick Ciaccio, Ackerman, the Lawyer MacPherson, the O'Gorman clan, Hacksaw - images of them, dropping in, sliding, spinning, ripping, seemed almost there. Many memories. A few incredible, truly epic, mornings, surrounded by these guys. And, of course, Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas, who, alone, was there this morning.</div>
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More than anything, it was a re-awakening. A resuscitation. A reliving. It left me intensely hopeful that this would again, soon, become the norm. </div>
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PS - sorry for the lack of photos. When we arrived, it looked pretty lame and that's about what the pictures I took reflect. It got better once we got in, but I have no photographic evidence...</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-46661129436209484842017-12-30T17:29:00.002-08:002017-12-30T17:42:40.266-08:00Diminuative Del Mar Delicacies<div style="text-align: justify;">
December was in doubt. Not since a memorable session in the Park with Allan and Joe had conditions aligned with availability. The long weekends of Thanksgiving and Christmas came and went while I remained dry. It would be sad to close out the year without another session. Forecasts for the 31st were minimal but there was a chance of some small remnants from a middling mid-week swell lingering into Saturday.</div>
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Headed down to North County San Diego to escape the swarms of tourists that inundate Pasadena for the Rose Parade and Rose Bowl, I texted my Nicaragua companions, Bret Belyea and Chris Lafferty, that Saturday morning might find me checking it out in Del Mar, most likely forlornly. I remained uncommitted but hopeful.</div>
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The morning surf cam was not encouraging. Although still influenced by an early high tide, the crumbling, waist-high waves on the Del Mar cam held little promise. But on a clear, bright, sunny winter morning, what would be better than a little time on the beach?</div>
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By pure coincidence, as I pulled into a metered spot in the parking lot by Jake's, Froggy (Bill Schildge) came walking by in front of the car. He'd not been at Del Mar in more than a month, yet here the two of us were. That was promising. As we watched the surf from the vantage point beside the Life Guard headquarters, we first were surprised by the number of surfers in the water and then again by some small, but nicely formed and very clean little tubes peeling across. Waist and chest high, occasionally maybe even shoulder high, they actually looked fun. I texted Bret and Laff to let them know and headed back to the car to squeeze into my 4:3 wetsuit for the first time since last winter.</div>
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Although around 60, the water felt icy on my bare hands as I made my way out, easily, to the line up. Three long-boarders were working the peak in front of the LG HQ, but happily shared with Froggy and myself. Eventually, as a few more of the inveterate Del Mar Bodysurfing Club denizens made their way into the water north of us, the Black Ball came out and we had the peak to ourselves. Shortly, Bret joined us - first time I've surfed with Bret in many months! - and Froggy peeled off to join the growing band of DMBC heads in the water 100 yards to the north.</div>
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For a full 90 minute session, while my hands grew accustomed to the cold and my toes gradually numbed, we had the peak in front of Jake's to ourselves. Most of the waves caught were in the waist high - plus range, but there were a few larger. Most were surprisingly hollow, offering short but fun little tube rides. A few were longer, but most pretty short. Unarguably, though, there was a steady flow of surf-able waves...much better than expected or even hoped.</div>
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As I exited, the DMBC crew, too, were gathering for their post-swim breakfast & beer congregation in Jakes, and I got a chance to chat a bit with DMBC majordomo Vince Asky and stalwart John Hughes. Also, I'd not seen her in the water, but another that I was happy to see from our Nica trip, Meredith Rose, was ashore.</div>
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As I was about to head out, Lafferty arrived, prepped for a swim. Sorry not to surf with him (though that certainly would have meant less waves for me!) it was good to at least say hi and catch up a bit.</div>
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It's always amazing how much mental peace can come from an hour or two in the surf, in the company of those that share the connection to the ocean and waves.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-71874979681333457152017-11-12T11:33:00.002-08:002017-11-12T11:33:39.186-08:00Fall Fun with Family in the Park<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was pretty close to perfection in the Park yesterday. </div>
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Forecast at 4 - 6 feet, it was breaking consistently from chin high to overhead. A late fall, long interval, south swell combined with an early winter, northwest swell to throw up a series of peaks from just below the steps to past the LG1 area to the south. A mild offshore occasionally ruffled an otherwise smooth, sometimes even glassy, surface. The water had cooled to a mild 63, but the sun was shining on a cool, fall morning. A slowly dropping tide was due to bottom out around 10:30 at +2 feet.</div>
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While these make for close to ideal conditions for the Park - probably only improved by a rising tide, starting out somewhat lower - what made the day especially memorable was that both my sons joined me for the 90 minute session. </div>
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When we arrived, a dozen surfers were splayed across the main peak area, while another half-dozen were clumped on a peak below the State Park campgrounds to the south. A couple other peaks were evident, while Cotton's was pumping in the background, further south:</div>
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It was a rare outing for the three of us. Other than during our annual summer sojourn in Newport, which often includes other friends & family, it's been a long time since Allan, Joe and I surfed together. Later this week, Joe is off on an extended trip to Australia, so this was a send off of sorts, while, for Allan, it was his first visit to my most frequent stomping ground, the Park in San Clemente.</div>
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We paddled/swam out at a sandbar between the rocks & LG1, north of the gaggle of surfers who were in front of the campground trail, where there seemed to be a consistent peak and no crowd. By & large, we had it to ourselves for the 90 minute session. Allan and Joe both were scoring long rides, both left and right, some fast, some slow, some all the way to the shore. It was the typical (when it's good) Park blend of fast tubular peaks, slow shoulders, and fast, inside walls. </div>
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I started slowly, getting a feel for the way it was breaking, but Al & Joe were on it in a flash. I mainly worked the outside, getting a lot of nice, relatively short, peak tubes and a few long, slower slides into the deep inside. Meanwhile, Joe and Al were working both inside and out, racing the faster faces and carving the slow ones.</div>
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After about 90 minutes, fatigue and calf cramps starting to set in, I caught a long left that walled up in the deep inside. On the other end of the wall, there was Joe, finishing a right that had peeled off the rocky spine we call the rocks. We ended up together in the middle, just south of the rocks. An inside current was sweeping south to north, so I allowed it to pull me north of the rocks as I slowly kicked the final few yards to shore, ready to rinse and head up to a hearty breakfast at Adele's to which Al & Joe treated me.</div>
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Does it get better?</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-80406123488000433422017-10-24T10:24:00.000-07:002017-10-27T07:55:02.147-07:00Magic Dusk in Del Mar<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm sorry that I don't have any pictures to convey what was an unexpectedly magical sundown session at 17th Street in Del Mar. The stats don't tell the story but they set the scene:</div>
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Swell: Beautifully formed, head high, hollow-breaking peaks.</div>
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Surface: Smooth, with a slight offshore breeze</div>
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Water Temperature: 71 (yes, in late October)</div>
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Air: 90 and clear</div>
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Crowd: Nobody within a block in either direction<br />
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Yes, for 90 minutes, I had moderately-sized surf that approached perfect, all to myself, in warm water on a balmy fall day. </div>
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I'm so used to morning, and even mid-day, surfs that I was enchanted by the phenomenon created by a clear, bright sun, dropping behind a good-sized wave: on take-off, behind a face shaded by the wave, the swell itself, illuminated from behind, glowed a luminescent turquoise. </div>
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In the tube, I am used to the morning sun transforming the lip into a glittering, crystalline curtain. Instead, at dusk, the lip is a dark curtain to the inside, and the tube instead is lit by the glow through the wave behind. </div>
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The blackball was up, from 16th to 18th street for part of the time that I was out. As the sole bodysurfer in the water, I wasn't surprised to have it to myself (though I wondered where the locals from DMBS were, given the great conditions!). But after the guards took down the blackball, the surfers, even though in some concentration, left the traditional bodysurfers' zone alone. </div>
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The only thing I was missing was someone with whom to share the stoke. About an hour in, I caught a perfectly-formed left that included some nice time closed in high in the barrel, after a reasonable open-faced slide. As I returned to the lineup, I noticed a local regular, Morgan Launer, whom I'd not previously met, swimming out. "Beautiful left," she commented as she sought her position in the lineup. Shortly, she was dropping into a set wave right, showing perfect trim as she slid out of sight. </div>
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Morgan's arrival occasioned a burst of wave energy, with shoulder & head-high sets coming in nearly continuously. We traded waves for a while before exhaustion got the better of me and I caught a "shore boat" ride to the inside and staggered up the sand. </div>
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As I fell asleep, images of backlit waves, glowing turquoise, filled my head.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-18269492847540191502017-10-14T16:50:00.003-07:002017-10-14T16:50:58.944-07:00In the Water Again, At Last!<div style="text-align: justify;">
The forecasts were sketchy: reasonably benign conditions but questionable swell. Most of the forecasters were hedging their bets, with things like "1 - 3 feet." There's a lot of room between one foot - basically un-rideable - and three feet, which can be a lot of fun! There was also the threat that an early high tide, nearly five feet, that wasn't going to drop very fast, would swamp what was there.</div>
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On the other hand, I'd not been in the water since August, with the sole weekend (last week) with good surf since August arriving on the only weekend I was out of town. I was desperate. Besides, the winds were favorable, the air warm and the water temperature continued to hover around 70. Had to give it a chance.</div>
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As I pull off the freeway at Calafia, I note a text in from Mark Ghattas: "Haven't seen a single rideable wave!" The State Beach parking lot is completely empty, except for Mark's car. These are not encouraging signs! As I walk across the tracks to the rail, there's nobody in the water and the "waves" in view are more of a surge up the sand; what little was there was swamped by tide. However, as we watch, occasionally a couple of waves, a couple of feet in height, break in water, rather than on the sand, and the decision is made to, at least, get wet.</div>
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It seemed that it was breaking a little further out, further down the beach at LG1, but we stopped at Main Peak to give it a try. Still alone in the water, it didn't take long to find out that those 2 - 3 footers were breaking in just enough water to be ridden, and had surprisingly decent shape. There's really no difference between a stomach-high wave ridden a few feet from shore and one ridden 20 yards out - what matters remains the size, shape and direction of the wave. And these were actually pretty OK.</div>
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About 30 minutes into a session that ran almost 90 minutes, a burst of energy arrived. For about five minutes, both Mark and I were catching fun little rights and lefts, peeling off the peak area, as fast as we could get back out after each ride. Inevitably, a long lull arrived.</div>
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About the same time, the only surfer to come out the entire time, anywhere between Riviera to the north and Cotton's to the south, arrived. Inevitably, he paddled out right where we were. Fortunately, though, he didn't have the skills to take many waves from us and he didn't stay long.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_GhleUXhWc/WeKiPq-zZKI/AAAAAAAASQI/v-DK9R6OIn8AgZszw5oKMaxf36cWtpwigCKgBGAs/s1600/GOPR1114-1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="1338" height="222" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_GhleUXhWc/WeKiPq-zZKI/AAAAAAAASQI/v-DK9R6OIn8AgZszw5oKMaxf36cWtpwigCKgBGAs/s400/GOPR1114-1-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were some long lefts...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M5yTsU0RJ-E/WeKiY-G_zKI/AAAAAAAASQM/LNrSW__PsfUA6w6IXiMLdGs4nGMv2zlXgCKgBGAs/s1600/GOPR1114-2-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1210" height="267" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M5yTsU0RJ-E/WeKiY-G_zKI/AAAAAAAASQM/LNrSW__PsfUA6w6IXiMLdGs4nGMv2zlXgCKgBGAs/s400/GOPR1114-2-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...at least, for those that know how to ride them.</td></tr>
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Altogether, it was a beautiful morning, with plenty of fun little waves, making for an excellent break from the so-dry month of September.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-91661108045069724042017-09-23T17:29:00.002-07:002017-09-23T17:30:57.814-07:00Newport, Then & Again<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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No, I have not quit surfing. No, I have not quit
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My last post, July 30, reflected on the four sessions I'd gotten in during July after having surfed only five times in the preceding six months. August was blessed with even more water time, on eight separate days.</div>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footer"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of figures"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope return"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
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What's kept me from blogging is the quandry over what to write about, when
my surfing consists of the repetition of something I've done, so many summer days, year after year. How to convey what is new
and fresh, even though every session is exactly that?</div>
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I first bodysurfed the Newport Peninsula as a
pre-teenager. Every summer in the half-century since, I've sojourned there to surf. Daily throughout the summer, 1965 would find the 11-year-old Hank, slowly wading out into what seemed too-chilly water with a single, stiff, all-blue Duck Feet fin in hand, nervously scanning the break at 13th Street for outside sets. Even a four-foot breaker in that heavy shore-pound was seen as a serious threat. </div>
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In 2017, the entry is a quick duck-dive, the insulation brought with age converting upper-60's water from chill to refreshment. The fin choice is still Duck Feet, but now there are two, colored a swirl of blue & green with black around the heel, composed of a much softer, flexible rubber composite developed specifically for bodysurfing by Dr. Greg Deets. The fins are donned on the beach, over 1mm, H2Odyssey fin socks. A four-footer now is a delight; a six-footer perfection. The Newport shore-pound remains heavy, but it has to get overhead to get the nerves jangling and heart pumping.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPY8h1GcF4c/Wca3vNpyr9I/AAAAAAAASHY/rg9CZBxRTZ8zzr6eZtQCeal61V-k9u5YACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_9199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="965" data-original-width="1600" height="241" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPY8h1GcF4c/Wca3vNpyr9I/AAAAAAAASHY/rg9CZBxRTZ8zzr6eZtQCeal61V-k9u5YACKgBGAs/s400/IMG_9199.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AM surf, viewed from bedroom balcony</td></tr>
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For six days in late August, I followed the same daily
routine: Rise, grab a cup of coffee, take a seat on the balcony off our
second-floor, bedroom, beachfront between 17th and 18th streets, which commanded an unimpeded view of the surf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Invariably</span>, in my mind's eye, I would see the
Pipeline-worthy, 20-footers that had attacked this beach three years ago during the
swell spawned by Hurricane Marie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16DDs2dwf-I/Wcb7F5378II/AAAAAAAASIQ/IkY_CHA_5_QaGP3QakZbanjsc22q_fLngCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_4224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16DDs2dwf-I/Wcb7F5378II/AAAAAAAASIQ/IkY_CHA_5_QaGP3QakZbanjsc22q_fLngCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_4224.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">18th Street, 2014 Hurricane Marie</td></tr>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Instead</span>, though, what I actually would see daily was a steady flow of nicely formed, waist to
shoulder high peaks (2 to 4 foot). Through the week, conditions varied: some days tainted with "morning sickness," a lumpy condition wrought by overnight winds, while on other days the peaks were clean and smooth, the surface glassy. By 8:00, I'd be in the water.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4VchpjQb1M0/Wcb7Sz5RgFI/AAAAAAAASIU/XK_VHzDol0wZlL1fGZ-gZXfj6k26T1PmACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_9123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="983" data-original-width="1600" height="245" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4VchpjQb1M0/Wcb7Sz5RgFI/AAAAAAAASIU/XK_VHzDol0wZlL1fGZ-gZXfj6k26T1PmACKgBGAs/s400/IMG_9123.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The second and third mornings were the best, coming in clean, glassy and head-high. Even though day two was a Sunday, there were few surfers in the water and a good vibe permeated. With lots of waves over a three-hour session, clean conditions, many barrel rides and a few long slides, it was my best session of 2017, so far. Monday was a little smaller, but even less crowded. Making it unique was the rare solar eclipse that day, observable while lolling in the lineup between waves, using disintegrating paper & plastic "eclipse glasses" that Michael Schwimer kept tucked into his board shorts.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fnMv8nlFA60/Wca35xq8uoI/AAAAAAAASHg/z4DAkRvvBTQCbF84dQU6Kb_1IlSpxExIgCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_9052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fnMv8nlFA60/Wca35xq8uoI/AAAAAAAASHg/z4DAkRvvBTQCbF84dQU6Kb_1IlSpxExIgCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_9052.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joseph - evening session</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Each afternoon, a reprise session would follow, but generally in smaller surf now choppy with afternoon winds.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Midweek sessions were enhanced by the company of Mike "Sully" Sullivan and his two kids, Brenna and Conner, down from NorCal, along with Stan and Michael Schwimer. Perhaps most memorable, though, was Wednesday morning, when, coxed by the irrepressible Michael Schwimer, Heather came out for her second surf lesson. A smooth, glassy morning, with waist to chest high sets, Heather took another step toward confronting her lifelong fear of surf, as she recounts in her blog: <a href="http://heatherhaldeman.blogspot.com/2017/08/white-water.html?spref=fb&m=1" target="_blank">White Water</a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9WOt4BSi4Ro/Wca4Cp_ad7I/AAAAAAAASHo/Hf2ic1YM6sogmklWRrHCBGHRizbX26ObgCKgBGAs/s1600/5%2BKneeling%2BSlide.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1211" data-original-width="1600" height="302" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9WOt4BSi4Ro/Wca4Cp_ad7I/AAAAAAAASHo/Hf2ic1YM6sogmklWRrHCBGHRizbX26ObgCKgBGAs/s400/5%2BKneeling%2BSlide.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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By Thursday, the surf was down to barely over waist high, while, strangely, more surfers started appearing in the lineup. By Friday morning, departure day, it was just dribbles insufficiently compelling to demand getting in. </div>
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Writing now, in late September, the surf this weekend matches that of most since late August, as well as the foreseeable forecast: under waist high. So, I reflect on this summer in Newport and the summers that preceded it.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-18093643418944168032017-07-30T17:03:00.000-07:002017-07-30T17:03:19.244-07:00Shapin' Up to be the Summer of Smallies<div style="text-align: justify;">
I only got five surf sessions in, the first half of 2017. In July, I nearly matched that. Four sessions, and would have been a fifth - I was at Sunset Beach last weekend, but it was virtually flat. </div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uEU01UdZURs/WX5y7OQb_-I/AAAAAAAARNg/0y7eIxbNEe4gb4DQN9aNp8OtqISPYjFeACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8979-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="1600" height="187" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uEU01UdZURs/WX5y7OQb_-I/AAAAAAAARNg/0y7eIxbNEe4gb4DQN9aNp8OtqISPYjFeACKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8979-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Like the first three July sessions, yesterday was again small surf but well-formed. This time, it was somewhat disappointing, since earlier in the week there were projections that hurricanes Hilary and Irwin were likely to throw a significant, combined swell our way. Unfortunately, it was not only weaker than expected but also late in arriving. By Friday evening, our expectations had been reduced significantly.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bO3untCntZo/WX5zHFpOt9I/AAAAAAAARNo/UUAu-BneMRQGHaQL3o_PbFks_5FCDwOXACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8967-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1085" data-original-width="1600" height="270" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bO3untCntZo/WX5zHFpOt9I/AAAAAAAARNo/UUAu-BneMRQGHaQL3o_PbFks_5FCDwOXACKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8967-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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On arrival, we found a nearly placid Pacific. A small pod of five surfers lurked at the Main Peak, with another, slightly larger, group out at Riviera to the north. Apparently attracted by the earlier forecasts, in the distance beyond Main Peak, there appeared to be at least 50 surfers vying for meager pickings at Cotton's Point. Closer to us, a lone, unknown, bodysurfer was catching some smallies between peaks.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nlsU8_i1GeQ/WX5zPog1TmI/AAAAAAAARNw/daLyNf0OIKQQbEo2Zd6mWO2w4udT5BY0QCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8959-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nlsU8_i1GeQ/WX5zPog1TmI/AAAAAAAARNw/daLyNf0OIKQQbEo2Zd6mWO2w4udT5BY0QCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8959-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Count over 40 heads out at Cotton's in the background</td></tr>
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Heavy overcast made a warm day - sizzling inland - seem cool, and the 70 degree water felt good. Mark and I elected to head down to the LG1 stand, below the campground, where there appeared to be some nice peaks in the chest-high range. Throughout the scattered peaks from Riviera to Cottons, the surf, while small, was clean and peaky. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EnHTwqi_NiU/WX5zLx4qprI/AAAAAAAARNs/2ib7GHUiw_0-jJZuWS2W9GjlUVYo9MKEwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8981-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1116" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EnHTwqi_NiU/WX5zLx4qprI/AAAAAAAARNs/2ib7GHUiw_0-jJZuWS2W9GjlUVYo9MKEwCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8981-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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We got in shortly after the low tide had bottomed out, with hopes that the increasing swell and tidal push would boost the wave energy. For the first 30 - 40 minutes, it appeared that our expectations were sound as what started as solo, rogue forerunners in the chest - shoulder high range started to become more consistent, two to four wave sets. The wind was mild, a bit off-shore, leaving a smooth surface. However, after a five-minute stretch where several sets had rolled in back-to-back, just as the wind picked up a bit and started to swing onshore, the bottom seemed to fall out. Long lulls were interrupted by only a couple of moderate breakers then would return. In the last 20 minutes I had maybe four waves. Ultimately, it left us with the feeling that the session, while fun, was somewhat disappointing. The upside, though, was that we had the stretch in front of LG1 totally to ourselves throughout the 90 minute session.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_DiYRMhC1Ks/WX5zZC-AVgI/AAAAAAAARN0/39WgXADYVW4cXZ9kBuzwJ7_0VRYmI9ybACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8971-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_DiYRMhC1Ks/WX5zZC-AVgI/AAAAAAAARN0/39WgXADYVW4cXZ9kBuzwJ7_0VRYmI9ybACKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8971-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Through the session, the overcast had thinned but not entirely burned off, but the shoreline had filled with a summer crowd seeking to escape the inland heat. The gaggle of boards at Main Peak had been replaced by a line of groms on soft tops, longboarders and spongers (body boarders) that stretched from not far above where Mark & I had been surfing all the way up to, and past, the steps back to the parking lot. One thing I couldn't figure out - there were kids donning full wetsuits to go play in the surf on a warm sunny day with water temperatures over 70 degrees. We'd just spent a comfortable 90 minutes continuously immersed in just trunks.</div>
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Ah, well...off to breakfast at Adele's!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-17522029756213659672017-07-15T18:29:00.001-07:002017-07-15T18:29:09.837-07:00Typical Newport Summer at Schoolyards<div style="text-align: justify;">
The morning Newport Lifeguard report claimed water temperature of 72. I was surprised as it's normally a few degrees cooler than San Clemente, which was reporting 67. The drive is shorter than San Clemente and the size looked about comparable at both places. With relatively small surf - 2-4 feet - the greater energy that a south swell brings to Newport was an additional draw.</div>
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Arriving at 15th Street for a rare solo session, I brought a towel & sandals onto the beach, which I rarely do. Even at 8:00, a few families had set up their tents and umbrellas. I dropped my towel just south/east of the lifeguard stand in a small stretch between two early beach set ups and checked out the surf. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--sIFceNG-Mc/WWrAlCoMCaI/AAAAAAAARMI/i0CSYDJvMWU0NxVIy4VMYWmvaMFqM2r7wCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8933-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1099" data-original-width="1600" height="273" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--sIFceNG-Mc/WWrAlCoMCaI/AAAAAAAARMI/i0CSYDJvMWU0NxVIy4VMYWmvaMFqM2r7wCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8933-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The waves appeared small and inconsistent as the tide bottomed out but the surface was glassy and there appeared to be some peaky corners a block down at Schoolyards. Fingers of brown water stretched to the outside every block or so, evidencing active rip currents. Between, there were some early beachgoers wading out while to the north/west there were some surfers spread out around 17th - 19th streets. None were in full wetsuits.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q83f9f0oJn8/WWrAr8FuBbI/AAAAAAAARMM/WDrJ4KZo6EUaOdFGCtgxRP6LJj6aaA8ugCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8910-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q83f9f0oJn8/WWrAr8FuBbI/AAAAAAAARMM/WDrJ4KZo6EUaOdFGCtgxRP6LJj6aaA8ugCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8910-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It was a surprise to walk down to Schoolyards then wade out, in my trunks, into water that could not have been more than 67. Ten minutes into the session, I'd caught a few small, fairly closed out waves and endured a lull. I began wondering whether I'd last a half hour in the chill water without much activity. </div>
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The recent Orange County shark activity lingers in mind, but shortly after I swam out, a dolphin breached with a burst through its blow hole about 20 feet outside of me. Throughout the session, a half-dozen trolled the lineup, passing every 20 minutes or so. I don't know if its only legend, but surfers believe when there are dolphin around they drive off the sharks.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zKIxEfrKqTo/WWrAxSOjbGI/AAAAAAAARMQ/EzsUby_XPdk80R0ylC_-R_sQV2m7ps4UwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8938-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zKIxEfrKqTo/WWrAxSOjbGI/AAAAAAAARMQ/EzsUby_XPdk80R0ylC_-R_sQV2m7ps4UwCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8938-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fortunately, as the tide started rising, so, too did the wave energy. Fairly hollow sets ranging waist- to chest- to chin-high, with force belied by their size, started showing regularly. From that point, I didn't go more than three or four minutes without a wave. Meanwhile, with the incoming tide and rising air temperature, the water slowly warmed. Over the next hour, the water became increasingly comfortable while the wave energy continued to rise. The latter part of the session, the sets - shoulder high and up - were pretty regular. Throughout, I was the only surfer of any sort - no sticks, no sponges, no bodysurfers - within three or four blocks. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h0m_5tBxpp8/WWrBK3SRhyI/AAAAAAAARMg/uNEOKYeapSs665CEsLNUWx2fVOAE2WzjQCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8941-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="943" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h0m_5tBxpp8/WWrBK3SRhyI/AAAAAAAARMg/uNEOKYeapSs665CEsLNUWx2fVOAE2WzjQCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8941-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The usual surfers were out around 19th, and after I got out, a solo short-boarder was messing around where I'd been.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yBze4kkRP9w/WWrA7WOl62I/AAAAAAAARMY/ZgfCGYL58q0CX8MeeO7nKmHqSSZJ0mYrwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8919-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="1600" height="243" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yBze4kkRP9w/WWrA7WOl62I/AAAAAAAARMY/ZgfCGYL58q0CX8MeeO7nKmHqSSZJ0mYrwCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8919-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A little over an hour in, repeating, intense calf cramps drove me to shore, satiated by the juice of the hollow Newport waves, happy to recall what a bit of summer South swell can do on the Newport peninsula.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OGwCvqC98oE/WWrBC6bjeUI/AAAAAAAARMc/l9vCw8mXBOkYhFEV0KreNfB2_wrrA1iggCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8946-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OGwCvqC98oE/WWrBC6bjeUI/AAAAAAAARMc/l9vCw8mXBOkYhFEV0KreNfB2_wrrA1iggCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8946-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-54111372451125520232017-07-08T17:58:00.004-07:002017-07-08T17:58:48.330-07:00Scads of Summer Smallies<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was smaller than the 3-4 foot swell (about head-high) that had been forecast. However, there was a growing south swell nonetheless, the water temperature was approaching 70, the surface was glassy, the skies were sunny, the waves were peaky and plentiful, and the respite from triple-digit inland heat most welcome!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bpqkTbBmjQE/WWF7d0enZ3I/AAAAAAAARIU/9WiSSJ4pwhEWj0AT5yYr20CKcTCEqjjkQCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_0465-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="1571" height="207" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bpqkTbBmjQE/WWF7d0enZ3I/AAAAAAAARIU/9WiSSJ4pwhEWj0AT5yYr20CKcTCEqjjkQCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_0465-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even small rights were hollow</td></tr>
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Although there wasn't much in evidence when Mark and I arrived at the Park, we were surprised by the pack of a dozen surfers clumped right in the main peak area.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yq0r2HrH5kk/WWF7-kFVMWI/AAAAAAAARIY/pfpTIVbUn3stcmjjHa9rXhzoPTztOBC2wCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8838-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="877" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yq0r2HrH5kk/WWF7-kFVMWI/AAAAAAAARIY/pfpTIVbUn3stcmjjHa9rXhzoPTztOBC2wCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8838-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Further to the south, at LG1, directly below the Park, there appeared to be more consistency, better peaks, and no competition for waves.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S6v5aZvV0hI/WWF8RqlmJRI/AAAAAAAARIg/IcDrw-EEnZg7eYUqvDS9gt2FqoKWMh7BQCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8842-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="878" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S6v5aZvV0hI/WWF8RqlmJRI/AAAAAAAARIg/IcDrw-EEnZg7eYUqvDS9gt2FqoKWMh7BQCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8842-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empty peaks at LG1. Note the crowd at Cottons in upper left.</td></tr>
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So we headed down there for nearly two hours of nearly uncontested waves. The biggest may have gotten to chin-high height, but they were fun, peaky waves, with few lulls and gradually growing size. Half-way through, Craig Thompson joined us, along with his daughter, and shortly after, another, unknown, bodysurfer swam out as well. Spread over about 100 yards, no one had any problem getting his share of rides.</div>
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Skinning it for the first time since last summer was a luxury, and the GoPro gave me something to tinker with between waves.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-esUuakNCjFY/WWF9gAjshYI/AAAAAAAARIk/1pj0Vaq8KiMZuSRgG8-eY9eNu3npmXjiwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_0464-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="1067" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-esUuakNCjFY/WWF9gAjshYI/AAAAAAAARIk/1pj0Vaq8KiMZuSRgG8-eY9eNu3npmXjiwCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_0464-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark tucked under a right lip</td></tr>
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The smooth surface persisted as the beach gradually filled in with beach-goers seeking relief from the inland heat.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aKa-mstGiws/WWF94L9XSjI/AAAAAAAARIo/xfN8PcyGAOkDP5HtjLnm8pVkPtxHKq0mwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_0467-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aKa-mstGiws/WWF94L9XSjI/AAAAAAAARIo/xfN8PcyGAOkDP5HtjLnm8pVkPtxHKq0mwCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_0467-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View on take off of LG1 and the Park campsite above</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XWEU3zG_8Ik/WWF-MiO_TwI/AAAAAAAARI0/l04HZbhUFcoi0UWh3FhzrcXUO5zfX4H2QCKgBGAs/s1600/Image-1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="1168" height="236" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XWEU3zG_8Ik/WWF-MiO_TwI/AAAAAAAARI0/l04HZbhUFcoi0UWh3FhzrcXUO5zfX4H2QCKgBGAs/s400/Image-1-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark in a tiny right</td></tr>
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By the time we were wrapping up, there were a few more sizeable waves coming in. Late in the session, I spotted something outside and stroked out to greet a perfectly shaped left corner that might have approached head-high size. It was great to be reminded of the forgotten sensation of actually sliding down a face before trimming up into the curl under the lip!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pCtW8HSTLn0/WWF-Ye4EEcI/AAAAAAAARI4/NzqMEGhkTj4Y9uPnPI6FVjsw8FbQbyEagCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8850-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1129" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pCtW8HSTLn0/WWF-Ye4EEcI/AAAAAAAARI4/NzqMEGhkTj4Y9uPnPI6FVjsw8FbQbyEagCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8850-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few got some bigger waves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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As we left, despite the fact that the surf was much better, and the wind had yet to mess it up at all, there was nearly no one at the Main Peak. A small group of groms, messing around with soft-tops, had it all to themselves.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-exeNBy32LdQ/WWF_kEpCXWI/AAAAAAAARI8/ichkzIUlOfwX5Tf6N1pmheghqV8qNgw4wCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8892-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1600" height="233" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-exeNBy32LdQ/WWF_kEpCXWI/AAAAAAAARI8/ichkzIUlOfwX5Tf6N1pmheghqV8qNgw4wCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8892-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharing a wave</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-94twoXwrCf4/WWF_q47hI9I/AAAAAAAARJA/9NYc5ti2QtA9lvQ5LKoPqR48VJ-XJTYfACKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8879-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="992" data-original-width="1600" height="247" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-94twoXwrCf4/WWF_q47hI9I/AAAAAAAARJA/9NYc5ti2QtA9lvQ5LKoPqR48VJ-XJTYfACKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8879-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different styling</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-44873726029432918522017-07-02T18:12:00.000-07:002017-07-02T18:13:32.872-07:00Sure Beats Not Surfing<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'd been standing on the Del Mar Lifeguard HQ deck for maybe 15 minutes, watching small, generally crumbly surf roll in under a heavy cloud cover; waiting for some of the Del Mar crew from our Nicaraguan trip to show.</div>
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A surfer that had been standing beside me, checking it out, greeted a buddy exiting the water: "Is it as bad as it looks?'</div>
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"Had some fun," came the reply, "sure beats not surfing!"</div>
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Shortly thereafter, I saw the guy, now suited up with board under arm, heading out, wearing a smile.</div>
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"Persuaded you?" I asked.</div>
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"Shamed me into it," he responded with a grin.</div>
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Shortly, Chris Lafferty and Jodi Hubbard had arrived and we were suiting up ourselves. Cool air and heavy overcast notwithstanding, some of the early crew of surfers had persuaded me that the water had warmed sufficiently that even a shorty wetsuit was plenty. I took their word for it and was pleased to feel the cool but comfortable water as I waded out.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uweZGeyXcjY/WVmZmHs--MI/AAAAAAAARFw/_qKjbTmOA_U3JwuWQ5QabRDkXJcpJM2eACKgBGAs/s1600/IMAGE_190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uweZGeyXcjY/WVmZmHs--MI/AAAAAAAARFw/_qKjbTmOA_U3JwuWQ5QabRDkXJcpJM2eACKgBGAs/s400/IMAGE_190.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Waist high rollers were plentiful, occasionally larger. Though most were pretty crumbly, a few had cleaner faces and, for a while, there was a surprising number of fun little waves. Froggy joined us shortly, so four of the Nica dozen enjoyed a stretch of Del Mar to ourselves, hemmed north and south by a surprising crowd of surfers. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ufsmFpWKL0Q/WVmZtNndUNI/AAAAAAAARF0/LHDD6pmQLM8VhcMuhCst1gvPtjtv7XG2wCKgBGAs/s1600/IMAGE_189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ufsmFpWKL0Q/WVmZtNndUNI/AAAAAAAARF0/LHDD6pmQLM8VhcMuhCst1gvPtjtv7XG2wCKgBGAs/s400/IMAGE_189.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately, the wind was rising and the burst of energy we'd found upon first getting in faded, so we called it after about an hour. As we exited, the Del Mar Bodysurfing Club regulars were starting to congregate on the shore. It was great to see Meredith (also from the Nica trip), along with DMBC doyen Vince Askey as well as John Hughes and Ray Sullivan. </div>
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Yeah, gotta agree, it sure beats not surfing!</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HjS92hGQSKA/WVmZzQrrGDI/AAAAAAAARF4/eIiSR-NaoNsHlr9QAOZgBctzeyl_hIoowCKgBGAs/s1600/IMAGE_191.mov" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HjS92hGQSKA/WVmZzQrrGDI/AAAAAAAARF4/eIiSR-NaoNsHlr9QAOZgBctzeyl_hIoowCKgBGAs/s400/IMAGE_191.mov" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-81986863284044886602017-06-17T18:06:00.004-07:002017-06-17T18:16:19.253-07:00Summer Surf; Sharks Be Damned<div style="text-align: justify;">
April 29, two weeks after my last session at the Park, a woman was critically injured by a Great White Shark at San Onofre - about 2.5 miles from the Park - while swimming in the lineup by her boyfriend who was surfing. Over the ensuing weeks, reports piled up of great white sightings between San Onofre to the south and Capistrano Beach, 5 miles north of the Park. Swarms of juveniles were mixed with sightings of larger - 10 foot - sharks. Most of San Clemente, including the Park, was closed or under active shark warning through all of May, into June. Video and TV reports circulated of surfers and stand up paddlers being warned out of the water while a dozen or so great whites circulated in the water beneath them. A beach cam captured a large white breaching in Trestles (which is between the Park and San Onofre), scant yards to the north of a dozen or so sticks in the lineup at the popular spot. Life guard helicopters cruised the coast, tracking and spotting the predators. Amidst it, another apparent attack occurred in the north end of Huntington Beach, Sunset Beach, on a woman in the shallows, just exiting a surf session.</div>
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While San Clemente remained under alert, there had been no significant sightings since June 2. Figuring the activity was, perhaps, moving off, I started making plans for a session for this weekend. A small swell was due, with warming water, a low tide and benign winds. Then, Wednesday, after a nearly two-week lull, another sighting was reported to the north of the San Clemente pier. I dejectedly texted Mark Ghattas, "Just when you thought it was safe to go in the water...." </div>
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However, there have always been sharks in the water. There had been no new attacks and the sightings were, indeed, falling off. So Cal temperatures threatened to go triple-digit, the water temperature pierced 70 for the first time since last summer and forecasts remained positive. Hugh Berenger had posted that he'd been out SUPing Friday (without event) and hoped to see me. My gills were parched and I had to go.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XdH8_AH2xyM/WUXSCq9VtyI/AAAAAAAAQ1E/nxb_LhOI8v4Hhtly7ENt-Aj0fvjB-g7iwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8806-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1101" data-original-width="1600" height="275" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XdH8_AH2xyM/WUXSCq9VtyI/AAAAAAAAQ1E/nxb_LhOI8v4Hhtly7ENt-Aj0fvjB-g7iwCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8806-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As I arrived, the day was heating up The ocean surface was smooth with a small, mixed swell coming in. The pier reported water temperature of 68. I could see Hugh on his SUP at the Main Peak ares, sweeping outside the lineup of three sticks between occasional rides. No one else in the water.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PFZgi9UVbgA/WUXSGM6uSWI/AAAAAAAAQ1I/znGFm4xEp4wkeMVnKa0aNuuzuUV21x_bgCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8822-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="1600" height="252" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PFZgi9UVbgA/WUXSGM6uSWI/AAAAAAAAQ1I/znGFm4xEp4wkeMVnKa0aNuuzuUV21x_bgCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8822-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I swam out and Hugh confirmed he'd seen nothing but was monitoring between waves. Between occasional lulls, a steady flow of waist to chin high waves were coming in, peaking at the usual sand bars. Hugh, I, and the three surfers shared the Main Peak for about 45 minutes, while a few surfers filled in further south, below the campground. The Main Peak started to fill in, so I moved a bit south, just above the rocks, and enjoyed that peak largely to myself. Within another half hour, the break had totally filled in: I counted twenty surfers, including a pack of hard-charging groms, at the main peak, and another dozen to the south by the rocks. Similarly, the sand had filled with families escaping the inland heat. Time to pack it in.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ailqgozqobE/WUXUWLHuBnI/AAAAAAAAQ18/PkaS3DHFvKUw_w6qYvtuNVzGEuE75Z6RQCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_8813-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="983" data-original-width="1600" height="245" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ailqgozqobE/WUXUWLHuBnI/AAAAAAAAQ18/PkaS3DHFvKUw_w6qYvtuNVzGEuE75Z6RQCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_8813-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I meant to shoot a few pictures of the pack at the Peak and the summertime crowd at the beach, but was distracted from it by Hugh's proposal of breakfast at Adele's.</div>
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This evening, the San Clemente beach report website contains the following:<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZszqciFjYw/WUXTUop1kWI/AAAAAAAAQ1k/kWwkE-LI7jElWggUaxI3ey4vbT0LBsBJgCKgBGAs/s1600/SCSP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="76" data-original-width="478" height="62" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lZszqciFjYw/WUXTUop1kWI/AAAAAAAAQ1k/kWwkE-LI7jElWggUaxI3ey4vbT0LBsBJgCKgBGAs/s400/SCSP.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-7083759892832411092017-04-23T17:06:00.001-07:002017-04-23T17:06:11.484-07:00Back to Back and Hoping for More<div style="text-align: justify;">
The last time I surfed back-to-back weekends was in 2015. It's been six months since I surfed twice in a month. It seemed that the habit and opportunity of surfing several times a month, year 'round, was fading away. It's tough for one relegated to weekends for most of the year, one who faces a hour driving to get to waves, one that must balance surf with travel and other weekend obligations. Today brought hope.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b-YDm3VEW54/WP0QiXAOkAI/AAAAAAAAQvA/zXCLNvPdZ98e7bxJ1T_YxjscFNTE6z16ACPcB/s1600/IMG_8759-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b-YDm3VEW54/WP0QiXAOkAI/AAAAAAAAQvA/zXCLNvPdZ98e7bxJ1T_YxjscFNTE6z16ACPcB/s320/IMG_8759-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Almost immediately upon returning from last Saturday's session, I was checking the forecasts for today. Through the week, I kept checking - a good swell was forecast, at four to six feet, big enough to power through the 7:30am 4.7 foot high tide. Winds were a little iffy, but looked to be ok. No rain in sight as a heat wave rolled across the Southland as the weekend arrived.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iNZ_yP6ubQY/WP0QiVytplI/AAAAAAAAQvA/U-cza4QkjFULgORhxhyfYaSySnk5UAiOgCPcB/s1600/IMG_8735-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iNZ_yP6ubQY/WP0QiVytplI/AAAAAAAAQvA/U-cza4QkjFULgORhxhyfYaSySnk5UAiOgCPcB/s400/IMG_8735-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Well, the size was not quite as forecast, and the swell less consistent than expected (making for lulls between sets), and a moderate breeze from out of the south was ruffling the peaks and texturing the surface offshore, but there was still enough there for a solid session.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nsN5ly6MaP4/WP0QiQZj4zI/AAAAAAAAQvA/iswXE4igj4MNfuH1iHdl73hf8JFcVp6WACPcB/s1600/IMG_8749-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nsN5ly6MaP4/WP0QiQZj4zI/AAAAAAAAQvA/iswXE4igj4MNfuH1iHdl73hf8JFcVp6WACPcB/s400/IMG_8749-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Mark Ghattas & I set 8:30 for rendezvous, allowing the high to drop a bit. When I arrived shortly after 8:00, there were only two surfers out at the Main Peak, plus three just beyond the rocks further south. It looked peaky and clean, coming in about shoulder to chin high. The lack of a crowd surprised me, but the lineup at Main Peak filled in pretty quickly. Further down, it appeared just as peaky and perhaps more consistent, and empty, so Mark and I elected to walk south to the area in front of the #1 Life Guard station, just below the campgrounds.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uUmSCyZ1Trw/WP0QiVHH7nI/AAAAAAAAQvA/gobsFkUaCzgvnlcDZCKcvMJGfssdnLe3gCPcB/s1600/IMG_8774-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uUmSCyZ1Trw/WP0QiVHH7nI/AAAAAAAAQvA/gobsFkUaCzgvnlcDZCKcvMJGfssdnLe3gCPcB/s400/IMG_8774-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The south breeze, dormant when I arrived, had started to pick up by the time we were in the water, about
8:40, but it wasn't really effecting the waves. The water temperature was chilly, but at least several degrees warmer than last weekend. The south wind brought some high clouds to dim the skies overhead, which had been clear on arrival. A small, rising, northwest wind swell was mixing in with a larger, fading, south swell, creating the peaks evident in the photos, but also leading to several long lulls.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jn42E3Xm3e4/WP0Qidpy4KI/AAAAAAAAQvA/Y8y7m_VfizIALaLsxQVM9hwlfyt5cL9YgCPcB/s1600/IMG_8795-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jn42E3Xm3e4/WP0Qidpy4KI/AAAAAAAAQvA/Y8y7m_VfizIALaLsxQVM9hwlfyt5cL9YgCPcB/s400/IMG_8795-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The inconsistency, combined with less than expected size, meant the session didn't quite meet the expectations created by the week's forecasts. Nonetheless, we both caught a number of long, smooth lefts that took us nearly to shore, mixed with shorter, faster, hollower rights. </div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dvcAuwNY1MQ/WP0QieFeEMI/AAAAAAAAQvA/8mrSGHzoJVE5qbMVPB-Es1rf2qeutdpAQCPcB/s1600/IMG_8763-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dvcAuwNY1MQ/WP0QieFeEMI/AAAAAAAAQvA/8mrSGHzoJVE5qbMVPB-Es1rf2qeutdpAQCPcB/s400/IMG_8763-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This afternoon, I checked the forecasts for next weekend. Saturday looks small (2-3) and the winds questionable, but there's supposed to be more size on Sunday (3-4) and, maybe, better wind conditions. Whether back-to-back-to-back is in the cards, it's starting to look like this spring and summer the south might just become a consistent swell generator. One can hope!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-4195589354769205652017-04-15T18:26:00.000-07:002017-04-15T18:27:14.108-07:00Chillin' in the Park ... At Last!<div style="text-align: justify;">
After an eight week hiatus, I finally got out for what was only my third session of the year, and we're already into Spring! Mostly, it's been wind, rain, tides and/or poorly timed swells. Last weekend, though, it was when a forecast of light rain, strong winds and a high tide contraindicated a moderately strong south swell...and then proved inaccurate. Too late, the morning beach cams last Saturday broadcast a scene of clean, head-high peelers.</div>
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This weekend, I was not to be denied. Forecasts were for a 2-3, maybe 3 -5, foot swell, low tide, clear skies and mild wind. Though on the small end of that spectrum, this time they were spot on; precisely what we found this morning at "the Park" (San Clemente State Beach). </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-csE9r3-YP0Y/WPKAjlJyu2I/AAAAAAAAQto/k0DujANe4-8SEfjmQ3DL7vVPh7e0GEw4gCPcB/s1600/IMG_8690-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-csE9r3-YP0Y/WPKAjlJyu2I/AAAAAAAAQto/k0DujANe4-8SEfjmQ3DL7vVPh7e0GEw4gCPcB/s400/IMG_8690-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A mix of northwest wind swell and southwest ground swell made it peaky - stronger, faster rights driven by the larger, northwest swell, mixed with steep and glassy, but slower, lefts from the the southwest swell. Somewhere, there had to be a north wind blowing, as upwelling had dropped the water temps to a very chilly mid-50's and there was a steady current from the north, continuously pushing us south.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Kb5PNwD-zM/WPKAjtRvnuI/AAAAAAAAQto/y7gH6G3UbVAjnxTBGQIpvVlYhaUmuJvPACPcB/s1600/IMG_8726-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Kb5PNwD-zM/WPKAjtRvnuI/AAAAAAAAQto/y7gH6G3UbVAjnxTBGQIpvVlYhaUmuJvPACPcB/s400/IMG_8726-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A dozen or so sticks (surfers on surfboards) were clumped at the main peak to the south of the steps, but there was another peak, somewhat less consistent but completely empty, between the steps and main peak. Mark Ghattas and I swam out there. Sheathed in my heaviest (4:3) wetsuit, the chill wasn't too bad getting in, other than my unprotected hands, to which the water seemed downright icy. </div>
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In an hour-long session, I stayed right where I swam out, while Mark allowed the current to push him south to the closer edge of the main peak area, where he got his fill of fun, shoulder-high waves. The crowd (and traffic jam I witnessed in the photo above) notwithstanding, Mark said the vibe was good; one surfer even apologized to him for taking off on a wave that Mark was eyeing, even though the surfer had the better position. When it's locals, the Park's a great place!</div>
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Meanwhile, I worked the further north peak, enduing some long-ish lulls, but my patience rewarded by my pick of the set waves. Late in the session, as the tide filled in, the waves moved closer to shore. A series of really fun lefts - smooth, glassy faces that were steep, but nonetheless held open for a sustained ride - came in over the last 10-15 minutes, capping a gratifying END to this fast of waves. </div>
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A couple of fried eggs, atop "Monster Hashbrowns" at Adele's, was the perfect postscript.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-62158567056718691072017-02-20T14:13:00.000-08:002017-02-20T14:13:44.523-08:00Gray Day, Green Hills and Good (Enough) Surf<div style="text-align: justify;">
The hills of Southern California are awash in a verdant green such as I've never seen before. As I came to a dead stop in the tangle of four freeways that all meet east of downtown, the little hill to my left was dusted with wildflowers of various shades of yellow and orange. </div>
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Though the sky was gray and the lighting dim as a soft drizzle enveloped LA and Orange counties, they sparked with color, nonetheless. The last time that I made the drive to San Clemente State Park to surf, like each of the drives in the months and recent years preceding, these hillsides were a parched gray. Even on those mornings of brilliant sunshine and clear blue skies, the landscape was drained of color. How much it has all changed in the weeks of rain since last I surfed the Park, in mid-November, pressed home just how long it's been.</div>
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There were waves in December and January, some quite significant, but there's been wind and rain, or the swells arrived mid-week, leaving weekends flat or swamped with high tides. Even this long weekend, with a large swell peaking on Saturday into Sunday, looked problematic as one of the heaviest storms in years battered Southern California, bracketed by squalls both before and after. But as we moved into the weekend, it became apparent that the trailing storm due on Monday would not get much south of the LA/Orange County line, and that enough of the weekend swell would linger to make it worth a drive through the drizzle of sodden LA.</div>
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It was gray, very, in southern Orange County, but not raining. The ocean surface, after days of wind-whipped chop, was nowhere near smooth, but had calmed enough as a mild breeze blew offshore. A couple of chin-high sets came through as we scoped it out from the steps, and, shortly, we were entering the chilly (58?), murky water in our heavier wetsuits.</div>
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While there were only a few surfers out when we were checking it out, by the time we swam out, there were a dozen at the main peak, and more entering the water. But they all clumped up there, fighting for one peak amongst the several scattered from the rocks to the south up to and past the stairs from the lot. There's greater consistency, and maybe a little more size, at the main peak, but the other peaks were empty. So what if there are twice the number of waves, if you have to share them with 10-20 surfers?</div>
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We swam out just south of the stairs, where a right was peeling off a peak on the northern side and a slow left would regularly appear from the south side. For an hour, Mark Ghattas and I worked that stretch alone. There were some lulls - one, unfortunate one when we first got out to the lineup - and an occasional rip tide we had to fight. But there were also shoulder and chin high sets, some a few larger, with some pretty long rides. Mark was regularly catching slides into the deep inside.</div>
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Most of the waves were a bit crumbly, with the lip tumbling down the face rather than pitching out in the hollow shape beloved of bodysurfers. But they were fun, nonetheless, and the lower energy was welcome as we slowly sharpened a rusted skill set. </div>
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Chilly water collaborated with legs and shoulders that had become unaccustomed to the continuous fight against current and rips to persuade us that an hour was enough after the recent hiatus. </div>
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It seems like its been ages since I last had a true, typical, winter session. I've missed them.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-22780499124357525532017-01-14T19:24:00.001-08:002017-01-14T21:13:30.697-08:00Del Mar: Drought-Breaker<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sometimes you're handed a totally unexpected gem. Such was this morning.</div>
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Two months, it's been, since last I posted; since last I surfed. I can't remember when I've gone so long. This week hardly brought prospects of change. Through the week, Southern California has endured a very welcome deluge; good for drought, not so much for surf. Friday found me in Torrey Pines for work, holding no hopes for a surf session. It was a wet day and evening, with showers expected to linger into Saturday. Foolishly, I allowed the forecast to lull me into a late night with associates, expecting a leisurely morning of preparation to return to Pasadena.</div>
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Hardly early, but sunlight through the hotel window awoke me at 8:20. The sky was clear and no wind appeared to stir the trees outside. I rolled over and grabbed my bedside iPhone and checked the Del Mar cam. Not many people in the water, but a nice little peeler showed in sunny, glassy conditions. Sh*t. Need to pack, to eat, to check out...is it worth it? I rolled over. </div>
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9:00 found me balancing my rolling suitcase, briefcase, umbrella, bran muffin and paper coffee cup on my way to the hotel parking lot.</div>
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As I pulled into the meters by the Poseidon parking lot behind the 17th Street Life Guard headquarters in Del Mar, there was Jody Hubbard (organizer of our Nicaragua trip last spring), peeling off her dripping wetsuit, surprise lighting her face as she saw me approach. Chris Lafferty was a few steps behind, and Bill "Froggy" Schildge was just coming up the sand. Hard to express how good it was to see three of our Nica pod, before, finally, getting my first session of 2017. How wonderful is it, to be able to pull into a beach parking lot over 100 miles from home and, unarranged, encounter three great friends that I'd not seen in months?<br />
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Entering my first cold water in a very long time, I was surprised how good it felt. No "ice cream headache," no shock, just the icy trickle down my back as I made my first duck dive in two and a half months. No doubt, the bright, sunny morning, the lack of wind, the warm-for-winter mid-60's air, all helped.</div>
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The surface was glassy and nice, un-threatening, mid-sized waves - maybe waist to shoulder high - were consistently rolling in. As the very high morning tide started dropping, occasional larger waves would catch the sand bars further outside, but too infrequent to warrant swimming out there. In the two blocks blackballed (no boards, no skegs) around the 17th Street station, the only other surfers out were a couple of bodyboarders to the south, who left about halfway through my 45 minute session. Otherwise, I had it all to myself: fun, peeling, semi-hollow, clean.</div>
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The highlight of the morning came as I exited after a long "shoreboat" ride in from the lineup: I doubted my eyes as I saw Vince Askey, the driving force behind the vibrant & growing Del Mar Bodysurfing Club, dunking himself in the shallows in a pair of jammers. Shock, not because of his exposure to the cold water, but because Vince just had surgery to remove thyroid cancer from his throat less than a week ago! He looked great! Amazing.</div>
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At Vince's urging, I spent a few minutes at the Poseidon bar with the regular DMBC Saturday morning crew, saying hi to John and Joe and other of the crew. I'd hoped to see Merideth & Haylee, as well, but unfotunately, they weren't there.</div>
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I expected to get up this morning, late, eat & pack, and eventually wend my way back from La Jolla to Pasadena. Instead, I got a compelling reminder of what so mandates my commitment to bodysurfing and the bodysurfing community.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-70881728251508194072016-11-05T18:43:00.001-07:002016-11-05T18:43:13.784-07:00A Day in the Park: Mixed Reviews<div style="text-align: justify;">
What's the right way to measure, or appraise, something? Against expectations? Or on some absolute scale? Or, perhaps, purely subjectively, on how you reacted to it? Imagine a play or movie or song. Perhaps those whose taste you respect panned it but you find yourself kind of liking it, silently defending it against that criticism. On an absolute scale, it still be mediocre, but it was much better than expectations and, overall you found yourself liking it - a "C" on an absolute scale but an "A" versus expectations and, subjectively, a solid "B."</div>
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Assessing today's session in the Park can only be done in that context. As the forecasts developed through the week, and even as it looked from the surfcams yesterday, there was every expectation of a very good session - a solid 3-5' WNW swell bringing in shoulder to head high+ sets; a moderate, but rising, tide, adding to the energy; mild, generally offshore wind; water temps still moderate (low 60's); and a warm, sunny day. That's recipe for an excellent morning in the Park. Against that expectation, the day was a bust.</div>
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Even though, driving down the hill to the Calafia lot, I saw one sizable, clean & glassy swell, other signs on arrival were bad. I expected a packed parking lot, always the case when a good swell brings out a strong local contingent of surfers. It was close to empty. Observing from the steps at the RR crossing for nearly 20 minutes, there were very few waves that looked to be even worth riding. And it wasn't just a case of being swamped by the tide, the size just didn't seem to be there, and what little wave energy was in evidence was muted by too much tide.</div>
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So, expectations for the session plummeted. Suiting up, I was hoping for maybe one or two good waves amidst a swim and float on a beautiful fall morning. As it ended up, the session was much better than that, though still far short of the original expectations.</div>
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Figuring the current would carry me as far south as I may wish to go, I got in a bit north of the steps. I was pleased to have to battle out through a set with a couple of shoulder-high waves, but figured I was then due for a long lull. In a few minutes, I was surprised by a a steep, fast left, with a five-foot face that eventually feathered over into a short tube ride. Within the next five minutes, a couple of sets, approaching head high, arrived, a bit walled up but with short, fast rights and still hollow. By the time Mark Ghattas joined me, about ten minutes in, I'd had four decent rides. </div>
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We worked the area between the steps and the main peak for about 85 minutes. There were some long lulls, but they were interrupted by bursts of wave energy ranging from shoulder to head high. The sand bars were creating some corners, mainly rights. A gaggle of sticks, ranging in count from 3 to maybe 6, hung at the main peak, picking off occasional peaks that would slide in, a foot or two overhead. But those were so few, and the take off zone for them so narrow, that it made sense for Mark and I just to hang a bit to the north and enjoy without competition the smaller corner up there.</div>
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It proved to be a decent session. Decent enough waves and no competition for them. Still, a pleasant morning and positive vibe in the water. Certainly not the total bust that it had looked like at first!</div>
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Versus the original expectation, a definite disappointment. On an absolute scale, an "ok" day, and much better than feared when entering the water. But on the scale that really matters, the purely subjective one, I have to say that it was a damn good morning.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-71368348899447246642016-10-16T09:18:00.003-07:002016-10-16T09:18:47.737-07:00Gettin' It Good in Newport<div style="text-align: justify;">
For 90 minutes Saturday morning, Mark Ghattas and I feasted on a steady diet of chest-, shoulder- and head-high peaky tubes and long slides. </div>
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This was, easily, my best session since Nicaragua, but came on a day of modest expectations. A big high tide crested over 6 feet shortly after 10am, which assuredly would swamp out San Clemente, along with most other places. The beach break at Newport, though, is relatively impervious to the high tide. Instead of depending on the sand bars, like most other beach breaks, the shape and energy on the Newport Peninsula are created by a steep drop off relatively close to shore. The tide may rise, but a reasonable swell still hits that ledge, pops up and breaks.</div>
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However, the Peninsula bends to face nearly due south, and the swell for today was primarily from the northwest, albeit with a small south swell mixed it. </div>
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Between the tide and the swell direction, we really didn't expect much. What happened, though, was a pleasant surprise. Some of that northwest swell was clearly bending around, then mixing with the smaller south swell to present a semi-consistent flow of unusually peaky crests. </div>
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From the Point, where the peninsula bends at 19th Street, down to "Schoolyards" at 13th, there were two or three peaks within every block where every three to five minutes a set of two to four waves would pop up, at least chest high and often chin to head high. Most of the rights began fast and hollow, often offering a two or three second barrel ride before close out, but some would open up and peel far inside. The lefts were softer, and generally longer, but also slower. </div>
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Conditions were ideal: a mild offshore, combing only a mild spray off the lips, helped to hold open the wave faces while still leaving a glassy, unruffled surface. The deep overcast present when we arrived thinned, and patches of blue appeared overhead while the ocean surface took on a silvery sheen. The water temperature has cooled to the mid-to-low 60's, but with air temperature around 70 and insignificant wind, it felt perfect in the 3/2 full wetsuit.</div>
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Because there were so many peaks, the 20 - 30 surfers out this morning were scattered over the four blocks from 19th to 15th, where we went out. Hanging between 15th & 16th, we had pretty much any wave we wanted, only occasionally crossing paths with a small group to the south of us and a revolving couple of sticks to the north. We each got probably about 20 good rides over a 90 minute session.</div>
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One will stick out, though. Perhaps the best wave I've seen Mark Ghattas ride, I had caught the previous wave and was standing in the shallows inside as I watched him take of on a nice, steep right with a 6 foot face. Mark quickly got slotted and went into his old trademark, spread-eagle layout with both arms flung wide. Like a cross he slid across the vertical face, while lip starting pitching and catching up to him. It got as far as engulfing all but his head, and threatened to overtake him, then backed off as he accelerated and cleared the tube, emerging fully. The face softened slightly and Mark adjusted into a more conventional, "chcken wing," postion, with his lower arm extended but upper arm cocked and trailing back. Still moving fast, he shot past my inside position and continued in, far into the shallows. Unfortunately, I had made the (wrong) decision to leave my GoPro in the car today and just concentrate on surfing, as I was in perfect position to have captured the entire ride.</div>
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Summer may have been a bust, at least for me, but it looks like (fingers crossed) fall surf is here!<span id="goog_503145435"></span><span id="goog_503145436"></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-71368700198173669642016-10-02T12:15:00.000-07:002016-10-02T12:16:10.418-07:00Desperate Measures<div style="text-align: justify;">
How to write about what was basically a poor session, yet convey why I was glad that I drove an hour this morning for an hour session in the Park, during which I caught a total of five waves, all more or less average at best?</div>
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I guess I start by noting I haven't been in the water since August 21 - <i>six weeks -</i> and only about 30 minutes of that session was any good (though, for that half hour, it was <i>very </i>good). Add that, three weeks ago, I trekked South with pretty high expectations - a moderate tide and decent swell forecast - only to watch the Park for nearly an hour without seeing anything to persuade me to get in.</div>
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The fact is, a surf session - virtually <i>any</i> session - is rewarding and therapeutic. But some come with an edge. Most often, that happens when it's too crowded or there's a bad vibe in the water. Or, maybe, the timing's just off and you're missing, or failing to execute on, some great waves coming through. There's the frustration of a grueling swim out, as with my <a href="http://hhhbodysurf.blogspot.com/2016/07/swiming-out-in-oceanside.html" target="_blank">Fourth of July weekend session in Oceanside</a>. These can turn what could have been a great session into something less. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pWYbHZIqTvA/V_FYn5P_Z2I/AAAAAAAAQQ4/TQJHzGo_YdQqBnxNtsckZmqEmqrlZK78gCPcB/s1600/IMG_8451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pWYbHZIqTvA/V_FYn5P_Z2I/AAAAAAAAQQ4/TQJHzGo_YdQqBnxNtsckZmqEmqrlZK78gCPcB/s400/IMG_8451.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Saturday, the tide, rising toward a near six foot high at 10:00, was causing problems. But it was compounded, as was the disappointing surf three weeks ago (I suspect), by recent sculpting of the beach at the Park. Again, the swell was there, but, again, it was struggling to break. I did see a couple of shoulder-high peaks, though, down in the Main Peak area, that looked pretty fun...and I was desperate for water time!</div>
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As I walked the 100 yards down to the Main Peak swim out in my shortie wetsuit - water temp reported at 68 - even three foot waves were breaking on shore. White water would surge up the beach and withdraw to a loud clatter of loose rocks being rolled up and down the sand. Wicked currents were clashing right at the low water line.</div>
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Finned up, as I reached the low water line, I found that the flat slope of the sand dropped precipitously; kind of a submerged cliff that went from ankle deep to deeper than I could touch.</div>
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It seems that sometime in September, most of the sand was carved away at the low tide line, leaving behind a submerged flat that stretches out maybe 25 yards. Shallow in low tide, it's at least 4 feet deep even in mid-tides, so that any swell under about 3 feet will simply surge unbreaking up to the wall, then jack up and crash. Underneath, loose rocks bared as the sand had been dredged away accumulated at the base of the underwater sand cliff, creating a polishing turbine, tossing the rocks like clothes in a dryer. </div>
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A lone surfer was out at the Peak, a couple more were trying to work the shorebreak further south at LG1. He greeted me with a nod and we waited for a set large enough to break in deep water. A deep fog engulfed the ocean offshore and throughout the wait sun battled fog for turf along the edge of the cliffs.</div>
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It wasn't until about 15 minutes into the session that some energy arrived, and over the next 15 minutes I caught four shoulder to head-high waves. Three were rights, fast and steep, but also short, as I had to pull out on each before reaching the maelstrom created by the submerged cliff. The left was strange, crumbly and bumpy, but longer. Then, another 15 minute lull ensued.</div>
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50 minutes into the session, I found one more of those rights, pulled up before hitting the no return spot that would leave me smashed upon the exposed sand, and then struggled to surmount the ledge onto the shallow sand. </div>
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Five waves. One hour. Warm water but an unsettled surface. Not even three stars on the SwellWatch five star system, but I was surprisingly satiated as I navigated the freeway on ramp to commence the return trek home.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-71223304713621584772016-08-21T14:40:00.000-07:002016-08-21T14:40:02.474-07:00Surprising Size on Saturday in the Park<div style="text-align: justify;">
While most of the bodysurfing community congregates in Oceanside for the annual World Body Surfing Championships, I slipped in a session in the Park Saturday before leaving town for work on Sunday. </div>
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The forecast was for 4 - 5 feet, cooler water, a rising tide, and mild onshore wind. On my way down to San Clemente, having re-routed to Coast Highway at Dana Point due to construction on the Interstate, I was surprised to glimpse a couple of pretty large - well overhead - sets along Capistrano Beach. Upon arrival at the Park, I was greeted by more of the same. </div>
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The sand bars were pushing up peaks, with ride-able shoulders for many, while other sets were pretty closed out. There was an unusual pattern to the sets. Three or four waves, a bit larger than head-high would roll in, and then, quite often, there would be two substantially larger, waves on the outside, followed by a couple of head-high waves, and then a lull. The pattern is evident in the next couple of photos.</div>
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That wave outside has to be a couple of feet overhead.</div>
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Of course, it wouldn't be Southern California without a bit of traffic:</div>
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It looked like it was working pretty well down at LG1, so Mark & I walked down there to swim out, figuring that the current would bring us back up through the Main Peak. As it ended up, we spent the session down there, joined by octogenarian Neil Frank and one of the local lifeguards. Had the stretch south of the lifeguard stand to ourselves for a 90 minute session.</div>
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The water was a cool 63 or 64, but comfortable in a rare summer use of a full wetsuit. To start, as evidenced in the photos, conditions were clean, semi-glassy. The first half hour was marred by lulls with occasional sets, but then, for about 30 minutes it really picked up and we were getting a lot of rides on head-high and larger waves. </div>
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Some were pretty fast and walled, but there were some great corners that slowly peeled into the deep inside.</div>
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Unfortunately, after that, the tide started swamping out the waves, so they just weren't breaking, moving closer and closer to shore and losing some of that height. About the same time, the wind started coming up, at first ruffling the surface but pretty quickly creating a bump that further messed up the waves. </div>
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So, it was a session of three parts. Starting with three or four waves in the first 30 minutes, followed by a 30 minute session that, if extended, would have qualified as solidly "four star," and then a final 30 minutes of increasing slop.</div>
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What will linger in memory is the mid-session segment, with a few exhilarating slides on faces that were much larger than we had hoped for and expected. I hope that's what the competitors are finding down south in Oceanside!</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-82823456438111552632016-08-13T10:53:00.003-07:002016-08-13T11:07:27.588-07:00Summer Sojourn: Lolling on the Newport Peninsula<div style="text-align: justify;">
In the years since my family sold the vacation house we had in Newport Beach, my mother has rented a house in August. Originally, a house on the bay, close by the old family home, the last two years it's been a beachfront house along the boardwalk on the peninsula between 17th and 18th Streets. For a week, or as much of it as each of them can, my family joins my mother to enjoy the surf, sun and opportunity to reconnect.</div>
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Especially over the weekend, this has become an annual opportunity to share surf with my sons, frequently with various of their friends joining us in the water. Mornings, most are on boards but, in the generally sloppier afternoons, with black ball flying (a yellow flag with a round black circle in the middle indicates no surfboards, fiberglass boards or boards with fins permitted), all turn to bodysurfing.</div>
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The switch to the beachfront has had great promise: formerly, most surf mornings, we'd load cars with boards and paraphernalia and drive 13 blocks up the peninsula to around 18th, and then seek out parking. Many afternoons, we'd walk the 3 blocks across the peninsula and then at least 5 blocks along the beachfront to where the waves would break better, and further out. Now, the 18th Street surf can be checked directly from the second story and it's a short walk across the sand to jump in the water.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beauty of beachfront living: Joe</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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As luck would have it, this summer, as well as last, our particular week has not been blessed with much swell. Last year, there was nearly none from the Friday we arrived to the Friday that we left. This year was a bit better, as a small swell - 2-3 feet - lingered over the weekend, before dying off to maybe 1-2 feet through the week. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How to exploit a smallie (1) </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zfcaIpR6WXE/V60vh9i9MYI/AAAAAAAAQE4/909QIswiUkUfuNuhk14LbS8qTCuBOsrxgCPcB/s1600/IMG_0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zfcaIpR6WXE/V60vh9i9MYI/AAAAAAAAQE4/909QIswiUkUfuNuhk14LbS8qTCuBOsrxgCPcB/s400/IMG_0004.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How to exploit a smallie (2) </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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On arrival day, Friday, I got in a nice solo surf in the afternoon in moderately small and somewhat closed out surf that nonetheless had some of that punch that Newport gets on a summer south swell. Later, as the sun slowly sank to our right and the wind gradually slacked off, Joe and I enjoyed similar, slightly better, conditions, and Allan joined us briefly as the light faded and dinner preparations called. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SbvU0nscq1U/V60vcFVMoUI/AAAAAAAAQE4/oToreeoNuNs_47YtknDyfaIOGFfzu0YjQCPcB/s1600/IMG_0003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SbvU0nscq1U/V60vcFVMoUI/AAAAAAAAQE4/oToreeoNuNs_47YtknDyfaIOGFfzu0YjQCPcB/s400/IMG_0003.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small, but well formed and clean</td></tr>
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Saturday, while the swell remained, found my sons, Allan & Joe, along with two of the Schwimers, Kevin and Michael, and an Abeger, Sam, all on boards, joining me in fun little surf in comfortably warm (71 degree) water. This was the best of it, particularly late morning, as the wind held off while the tide filled in. All pictures are from Saturday morning & midday.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yvQKAoFrW08/V60wnp9P5HI/AAAAAAAAQE4/yB2AwjQmkIsSCYUxnfZzX6YyN2JyK7rVgCPcB/s1600/IMG_0008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yvQKAoFrW08/V60wnp9P5HI/AAAAAAAAQE4/yB2AwjQmkIsSCYUxnfZzX6YyN2JyK7rVgCPcB/s400/IMG_0008.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Allan found a little size</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pKtKQ17AXsY/V60xJFniEII/AAAAAAAAQE4/XY5VXIVCAPon1kDpG-KUGCUHCC-FJ--5gCPcB/s1600/IMG_0014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pKtKQ17AXsY/V60xJFniEII/AAAAAAAAQE4/XY5VXIVCAPon1kDpG-KUGCUHCC-FJ--5gCPcB/s400/IMG_0014.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mini-floater - Joe</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F18oPp-7R4Y/V60w2v5iYWI/AAAAAAAAQE4/SP6zSMDOIpUctwLburblAVyKMOjTdSRMgCPcB/s1600/IMG_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F18oPp-7R4Y/V60w2v5iYWI/AAAAAAAAQE4/SP6zSMDOIpUctwLburblAVyKMOjTdSRMgCPcB/s400/IMG_0011.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Air Schwimer</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3ko5Te6e-S0/V60xXvzzu5I/AAAAAAAAQE4/gkGRDvQ2nn01YdWN9Pe_M-8RN-KZ68iJwCPcB/s1600/IMG_0017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3ko5Te6e-S0/V60xXvzzu5I/AAAAAAAAQE4/gkGRDvQ2nn01YdWN9Pe_M-8RN-KZ68iJwCPcB/s400/IMG_0017.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kevin, seeking barrels</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DorRGH6O5eE/V60wfgWKD5I/AAAAAAAAQE4/d6WRkACUdBUWZVn1jBhGAuoWUk5fsxTVQCPcB/s1600/IMG_0007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DorRGH6O5eE/V60wfgWKD5I/AAAAAAAAQE4/d6WRkACUdBUWZVn1jBhGAuoWUk5fsxTVQCPcB/s400/IMG_0007.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam, trimming</td></tr>
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Sunday morning, there was still enough for Joe, Allan and I to get in session in the fading swell. By Sunday evening, the south was largely gone, leaving the 1-2 foot westerly swell that would provide slim pickings - but more than nothing! - through the remainder of the week.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yt39B7io5TY/V60xxu9nXBI/AAAAAAAAQE4/en11O4sXJf4ZlbJ5juAMNqiVmH71J9dfQCPcB/s1600/IMG_0019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yt39B7io5TY/V60xxu9nXBI/AAAAAAAAQE4/en11O4sXJf4ZlbJ5juAMNqiVmH71J9dfQCPcB/s400/IMG_0019.JPG" width="365" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Allan</td></tr>
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Monday through Thursday, Joe and I would jump in periodically for a little recreation and to cool off. There were periods of onshore breeze, sometimes stiff, but some glassy mornings and evenings. At one point, the water cooled to a chilly 63, but eventually worked its way back up to 70 or 71. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q6PBbhB88AU/V60w8b1mFeI/AAAAAAAAQE4/SgaO9K1s3s0k_mOtUxxISUHPxodFvcklQCPcB/s1600/IMG_0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q6PBbhB88AU/V60w8b1mFeI/AAAAAAAAQE4/SgaO9K1s3s0k_mOtUxxISUHPxodFvcklQCPcB/s400/IMG_0012.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joe</td></tr>
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Through the week, my mother fretted, concerned that the lack of meaningful surf would ruin the vacation. She need not be concerned! Nothing can match it: a week of falling to sleep, and waking, to the sound of surf; of lolling on the sand, staring at the unbroken horizon or reclining on the front deck watching the constant parade of creatively and colorfully clad pedestrians, cyclists, skateboarders, skaters and surrey riders slide past; of tuning into the Olympics when events got interesting; of striding down to the water's edge and wading in for a swim, and a wave or two, whenever the impulse struck; and, of course, of reconnecting with family through lazy days and extended dinners.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zya6gRwv7ww/V60x8PwTJqI/AAAAAAAAQE4/5HoT-m3HijokfTdc8ZNjM7p1RlsrrgdPwCPcB/s1600/IMG_0020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zya6gRwv7ww/V60x8PwTJqI/AAAAAAAAQE4/5HoT-m3HijokfTdc8ZNjM7p1RlsrrgdPwCPcB/s400/IMG_0020.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joe & Grandmother</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zr6m1mllgDY/V60yihKnkSI/AAAAAAAAQEY/8gVPPI5ovIkXILlS-UWC60ZH-iRZNL2KACPcB/s1600/IMG_0023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zr6m1mllgDY/V60yihKnkSI/AAAAAAAAQEY/8gVPPI5ovIkXILlS-UWC60ZH-iRZNL2KACPcB/s400/IMG_0023.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening on the boardwalk</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-33793020248177066952016-07-24T07:45:00.003-07:002016-07-24T07:52:46.035-07:00An Un-Populated Peak in the Park<div style="text-align: justify;">
Filtered through the smoke of an uncontained wildfire to the north, the early morning sun Saturday was a blood-red disk. Ash drifting like a light snowfall had accumulated overnight and the smell of fire hung heavy in the air. My thoughts turned to Nicaragua, where trash fires and/or jungle clearing had presented the same sun each dawn.</div>
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With triple-digit heat rising throughout inland SoCal, it was discordant to find Newport shrouded in fog as I arrived at 15th Street about 8:30. Through the fog, I could discern the incoming sets, head high, heavy and fairly closed out.</div>
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However, crossed signals found Mark at the Park (San Clemente) at 8:30 this morning and he reported that the Park was breaking well - peaky and fun-looking - though rather heavily populated by board surfers. Nonetheless, figuring that, most often, we can find an unpopulated peak in Park, we settled on San Clemente (my preference from the start) and I got back on the road for the 40 minute drive South. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-B4oXQg0rs/V5Qkf_dY5UI/AAAAAAAAP_I/h1E_LOPbq7wENnz3g7f7ZPpRpDqJh7bNACKgB/s1600/IMG_7811-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-B4oXQg0rs/V5Qkf_dY5UI/AAAAAAAAP_I/h1E_LOPbq7wENnz3g7f7ZPpRpDqJh7bNACKgB/s400/IMG_7811-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Good call! Checking from the steps, I found Mark stationed about 1/3 of the way south to Main Peak. Beyond him, at Main Peak, maybe 20 surfers were clumped in a narrow take off zone. 150 yards north, Mark was alone. Now running an hour behind plan, I only watched for a couple of minutes (and only took a couple of shots), but in the few minutes that I watched several nice lefts, approaching head-high, peeled across where Mark was set up. Unfortunately, I didn't catch any shots of Mark riding one.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1asJYFNbQPo/V5QkgSdxkKI/AAAAAAAAP_I/SA0OTBm_AZoYB-Ae7FoLu_MjHpbf09IzQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7812-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1asJYFNbQPo/V5QkgSdxkKI/AAAAAAAAP_I/SA0OTBm_AZoYB-Ae7FoLu_MjHpbf09IzQCKgB/s400/IMG_7812-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Following a quick change into my trunks, I was swimming out in comfortably cool water.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C1zo4DBLVQs/V5QkghMh4DI/AAAAAAAAP_I/PhIXbbcTLMkQsp8FN3H_e3ULF624rayRQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7817-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C1zo4DBLVQs/V5QkghMh4DI/AAAAAAAAP_I/PhIXbbcTLMkQsp8FN3H_e3ULF624rayRQCKgB/s400/IMG_7817-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The late start lead to an abbreviated, one hour session. However, throughout, the sticks remained well south. Ashore, the beach rapidly filled with a heavy summer crowd seeking to escape the blistering heat inland, but the waders and boogie-boarders stuck to the shallow water inside.<br />
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Another attraction of going further south, the water was at least three degrees warmer - approaching if not exceeding 70. Skinning it, the cool water felt great against the warming day. The surf was a bit inconsistent, but shoulder high sets were common, with an occasional head-high wave or two. In addition to those peeling lefts, the peak we'd commandeered was regularly presenting a smaller right runner that ran pretty far inside.<br />
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A downside of San Clemente is that the Parks have shut off all the showers due the drought. Figuring I'd be in Newport, where the beach showers still work, I'd not brought my portable shower, so I was left to splash some water from a sink onto my face and drive home salty through the summer traffic and heat. A small price to pay.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-83916146760080219462016-07-16T17:25:00.002-07:002016-07-16T17:25:20.529-07:00Solo Session in the Summer Smallies<div style="text-align: justify;">
A generally unwelcome "troll" who participated in an email list for bodysurfers that was popular in the worldwide bodysurfing community before Facebook drained much of the activity from "the list" liked to denigrate those who chose to surf when the waves were less than at least head high, referring to such surf as "smallies." There was always a sneer accompanying the term.</div>
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There was no reason to expect today to be anything other than smallies. That troll, nom de plume King Rotten, would never have understood one electing to drive an hour to surf in waves unlikely to exceed waist-to-chest height. In fact, I was even on the fence for today, as the 2-3 foot forecast was further marred by a peaking high tide at 8:15 (fortunately, a moderate 3.5 feet) and onshore wind direction (thankfully, moderate). </div>
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Offsetting that was the fact that I've not been out in "the Park" - San Clemente State Park beach - since early June, along with the draw of water warming to the low 70's. More significantly, on Friday, Bret Belyea, he who was instrumental in my inclusion on the Nicaraguan safari - had texted to say he was overnighting in Laguna and would meet me in the Park, in the morning, for a session.</div>
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Things didn't work out as planned. Bret's ride got a flat tire and, ultimately, they weren't able to make it. To the hour it usually takes in the early morning to get from Pasadena to San Clemente, traffic added forty-five minutes. At least that put me at the Park after the lull that accompanies the peaking tide.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xXG_Jq1aMRE/V4rPunL7KSI/AAAAAAAAP-M/USgqqfV1lbskBxRe5BCURItlrAbn-udCwCKgB/s1600/IMG_7797-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xXG_Jq1aMRE/V4rPunL7KSI/AAAAAAAAP-M/USgqqfV1lbskBxRe5BCURItlrAbn-udCwCKgB/s400/IMG_7797-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As I circled the drive through the parking lot, I could see that there were at least some waves. On the other hand, few spaces were occupied, meaning few had chosen to park and surf, generally a bad sign. There was nobody out in the water from Rivera, a half-mile north, to the area we call LG1, below the campground 1/4 mile south, where a knee-boarder and a couple of sticks bobbed in water.</div>
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The wind was already on the water, crumbling the smaller waves and making for almost - but not quite - light chop. Nonetheless, a couple of set waves, maybe shoulder-high, rolled in as I scoped it out. In a few minutes, I was swimming out alone at the Main Peak section. For the hour I was in the water, not a single surfer of any sort was anywhere north of the rocks that split Main Peak from the LG1 section. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K8gCRxdrYpc/V4rPu3SvooI/AAAAAAAAP-Q/NkuCKaN50MkylWNKHI8rMmE6CL5HoRXsgCKgB/s1600/IMG_7801-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K8gCRxdrYpc/V4rPu3SvooI/AAAAAAAAP-Q/NkuCKaN50MkylWNKHI8rMmE6CL5HoRXsgCKgB/s400/IMG_7801-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I had a surprisingly fun session, reveling in the fact that any wave I wanted was mine. And there were some good ones. Though from the steps it had appeared that many waves were crumbing - whitewater rolling down the face of the wave before it steepens enough for anything other than a long board to ride - actually, there were many much steeper than I'd seen, and several pitching enough to present small tubes. Fortunately, the waves that were there were catching the sand bars which so often make the beach break peaky, so the rides, both left and right, were of moderate length.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WsespaAZS4s/V4rPvPNnzxI/AAAAAAAAP-U/feQQifM__XguK29XZCH37RrvHX17rBKGQCKgB/s1600/IMG_7805-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WsespaAZS4s/V4rPvPNnzxI/AAAAAAAAP-U/feQQifM__XguK29XZCH37RrvHX17rBKGQCKgB/s400/IMG_7805-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Some sessions, between lulls, waiting for sets and sharing with others in the water, rides might be as infrequent as one in 10 or 15 minutes. Though I was only in an hour, I had to have averaged a wave every 3 minutes. Once every five minutes, a solo, larger wave - maybe chin-high - would come in. Attuned to that timing, I think I got every one that showed in that hour period.</div>
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Smallies may not provide the adrenaline of a heavy, overhead tube, or the hyped up vibe in the water, but there's so much more to a session, even a solo session. Watching the terns wheel overhead as an occasional solo pelican glides by low; floating in the cool, but comfortable water; observing from offshore as the empty beach slowly fill with a summer weekend crowd; and, of course, regularly dropping into empty, well-shaped waves; I think "King Rotten" missed the point.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-61818368277948052392016-07-06T07:40:00.001-07:002016-07-06T07:42:38.492-07:00Nicaragua 2016: The video<div style="text-align: justify;">
Thanks, Bill "Froggy" Schildge for all the work (assisted by Bruce "Sensai" Robbins) to put together this wonderful, 30-minute, reminiscence of our Nicaraguan adventure.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ch9CDWpS6Yg" width="480"></iframe>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-24015079984072205052016-07-04T19:00:00.003-07:002016-07-04T19:00:36.822-07:00Swiming Out in Oceanside<div style="text-align: justify;">
The long, holiday weekend found us in North San Diego County for a reunion of as many of the Nica pod who could make it. Hosted by Meredith and Hayley at their home on the Del Mar bluffs, good food and story, and the opportunity to mix significants and kids, were highlighted by Froggy's video of the trip - so professional, so funny! So, of course, the question was where to surf Sunday morning, ultimately deferred until a morning call to be made based on observation and the cams. </div>
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A dropping south swell portended small waves in Del Mar but maybe more up toward Oceanside. Unfairly, I'm not a big fan of O'side, largely because the swim out there can be pretty tough. But as the morning dawned, texts were flying, with a consensus developing that the dawn patrol would swim out at O'side, where the "eyes on" observation by Bruce "Sensai" Robbins reported a glassy, 1-3 foot swell, while the later, family, contingent would loll at Del Mar. I joined the dawn patrol.</div>
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With water temps reported in the low 70's around south OC and north SD counties, despite a thick, grey overcast, cool air temperature and mild offshore breeze, I opted to "skin in" in my trunks, a quick change on arrival in O'side. Walking down the steps on the south side of the pier, with sticks arrayed off to the south, I saw three heads - Bruce, Brett and Jody - in flat water about 200 yards offshore. As I "finned" up on the beach and waded out, I wondered whether their positioning so far out was wishful thinking. Take care what you think, because Maia will hold you accoutable!</div>
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After a very short wade out, there was a long trough, maybe 75 yards, at least five feet deep to traverse with a mild, north-bound current running through it. No sweat. But as I stroked toward the end of the trough, outside set - head high and overhead in size - started arriving another 75 yards out. A lot of water was moving shoreward, and a strong channel of side current began pushing north into the pier. I swam out against the unceasing shoreward flow. I swam south against the pressing north current drawing me into the pier. For five minutes, I made a little progress toward the lineup, ducking again and again under the white water, got pushed back, then made a little progress again. Checking my progress against markers on the pier, I'd be encouraged by seeing them draw even and start to fall behind, only to be dismayed after a few waves to see them again in front of me. But each time, disconcertingly, a bit closer to that pier. Yeah, once or twice, I actually thought about just packing it in and trying to swim out on the other side of the pier.</div>
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Finally, I seemed to be making some progress without backsliding and hit a break when I could stroke out into the line up. No SoulCycle, no interval circuit training, prepares you for that. Bret greets me to the lineup with the information that they had been drawing straws to see who got to come in and get me. Thanks.</div>
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Once out there, I was surprised by the size of the surf. And it wasn't without some power. Unfortunately, while there were a few corners for the patient, or for the intrepid willing to take off closer to the pier, the sets were fairly walled off, closing out. However, the faces were holding open for a while, so even the more closed out walls offered a ride of several seconds. The sets were head high, and plus, with some inside waves with a bit more form, offering some longer lefts that Jody and Brett were exploiting. Meanwhile, Bruce was picking off the set waves that had any kind of shape, and making far more of them than I ever could, driving far inside toward the pier.</div>
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The waves I did catch - and I got my share - tended to be shorter, but hollow and pitching while being strangely forgiving. There was no real "price to pay" at the end, as every exit was clean. While the left corners were more obvious, and longer, they carried with them the levy of fighting the current back south from the pier and a longer swim back out. The rights were fast, hollow and fun. But short.</div>
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The sticks pretty much left us alone, ranging to the south, which was peakier but also allowed longer lefts without the immobile stopping point of the pier to consider. </div>
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Bret & Jody had to leave after an hour. I lingered another 30 minutes with Bruce, starting to get a bit chilled without any rubber - Jody & Bruce wore full suits and Bret was in a spring suit - leading to leg cramps on pretty much every wave. </div>
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It was great to share some waves with some of the Nica pod, even if so different from Nica. While the waves were fun, I can't say that Sunday's swim out in any way decreased my antipathy toward O'side...though maybe I should have heeded the local's suggestion from Bret to swim out on the north side of the pier and then swim down through the pier. You think?</div>
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I love the the variety of different spots. And, yes, rising to the unique challenges that they present. Next time, though, I think I'll lobby for Encintas.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1531804973919939487.post-88985908663724336512016-06-26T16:24:00.002-07:002016-06-26T18:07:18.403-07:00Summer Swelter Summer Swell<div style="text-align: justify;">
You know that summer has arrived when...</div>
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... a large, south swell pounds Southern California beaches</div>
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... inland temperatures soar daily into the upper 90's</div>
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... fires burn across the state</div>
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... water temperatures approach 70</div>
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... and it's time to hit the Newport peninsula.</div>
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Weekend parking is hard enough to find in the Newport jetties in winter. Summer is more difficult; add a swell, bringing in surf crowds, and it becomes almost impossible. Our initial call was along the peninsula at 15th Street, hoping that the south-facing beach would be angled enough not to be closed out. </div>
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Even before I could see the waves, I suspected that hope was to be dashed: walking across the lot at 15th, I couldn't see the water but had no problem seeing the whitewater leaping high above the sand horizon as a set came in. I watched for a while, but, as I said to Mark when he arrived a few minutes later, "it just looks big and mean."</div>
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The regular sets, overhead in height, were heavy and closed out. Just didn't look like fun.</div>
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We watched for a while longer and decided to check Blackies, up at the pier, which generally is much smaller but peaky. There's a large lot on the north/west side of the pier, but the dory boat fish market combined with a farmers market and sizzling inland heat to bring in an early crowd. It was backed up just entering the lot. Amazingly, though, a car pulled out just as I inched my way into the lot. I went to check Blackies, but it was not only breaking small - maybe waist high - but was nearly as crowded as the parking lot - long boarders, soft-toppers and sponges galore! Basically a beginner's beach, it was probably the only spot within miles that most of them were proficient enough to surf.</div>
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However, looking back south/east, beyond the pier, The Point - 19th Street - seemed to hold promise and was uncrowded. </div>
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More important, the uneven, shallow shelf that juts out at the point was creating some nice little peaks. Though much smaller than 15th street, the shoulder-high corners looked promising.<br />
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Mark went off to find a parking spot around 19th and I added a couple of hours to my parking and suited up in my spring "shortie" for the first time this year. For a little over an hour, we fought a steady current to maintain position around the 19th street lifeguard stand and shared some fun, hollow, Newport waves with a couple of knee-boarders and an occasional stick. </div>
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As Mark had to leave, I was tiring of the constant swim and had noticed that somewhere around 18th Street, those closed-out lines from 15th appeared to bend into big, fast lefts. </div>
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For my final half-hour, I decided to walk up the beach, nearly to 17th, and drift into a few of those. I got several of those larger lefts, then allowed the current to carry me up to 19th and close the session out with several final waves at the point.</div>
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First taste of summer surf...not bad. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0