This week, ultra-core Golden Triangle member Eric ( EY_\ ) Yeisley trades the ocean for the mountains and heads off to a new life in Colorado. Got me thinking back to my first session in the Park. That day, I wrote:
"Just entering the water, a blue-hatted dude drops into a nice little, but long left...one spinner...two spinners...three spinners...close out. Pops up and sez, "you Hank?" Great intro, EY! Way to show the first timer how SCSB is to be ridden!"
Hank...meet the king of the smallies! Yeah, we all know that EY_\ rips, large and small. But he earned the sobriquet, at least from my view, not only because of the length and spinners he milks out of the little ones but also because of his tendency to hang inside, catching at least triple as many waves as I and, most likely, the better, if not bigger, ones.
Crawdaddy's send off video - link here - is a great exhibition of EY_\ at his finest, mid-week last week.
Today was no exception. Yeah, he got his share of set waves, but most of the time, there he was, inside, milking the Park for all it had to offer today. And it had a lot to offer, today, especially early!
EY_\ and Mark (Sailfish) Ghattas had arrived early and were by 7:15. Hugh preceded me, briefly, at 8:00. Park was at its best, at the main peak: lefts & rights peeling off a pitching peak, hollow and fast - but not too fast - with solid juice. Sets were consistent and regular, combed by a steady but mild offshore. A small crew of local sticks - good vibe - were camped on the main peak, but the pod of the body claimed the stretch between the main peak and the rocks, and had it to ourselves until after 9:30.
Sailfish exited to drive EY_\ home about 9:30 while Hugh and I tried to maintain our exclusive peak. By the time Sailfish rejoined us, we were staving off an increasing horde of not-so-local, not-so-aloha surfers, now picking over surf that had lost some size and power and was getting a little crumbly. Hugh exited not long after, and Sailfish and I swam down to LG1 where we had a little more space and snared a few, last good rides before exiting about 10:45. A very satisfying, 2-1/2 hour session, especially when I really didn't expect much today.
Drove home, thinking back over the number of times over the last five years that EY_\'s put out the call for the Park. Over the years, the most consistent company in the water. Always up for it & always psyched. His in the water enthusiasm earned the Golden Triangle the appellation of "talking heads" from the local stick population. No doubt, he made his contributions to our earning the "chatty cathies" title from #9 as well.
EY_\ - look forward to the next time we see you in the Park! Meanwhile, good luck in Colorado!
[Crawdaddy's sendoff video is also linked to the title, above.]
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Summer Came Early
Other than 60 degree water, it seemed much more like a summer day in the Park: a moderate swell out of the Southwest, glassy through the morning and clear water on a warm and sunny morning.
I had figured to surf from 8 to 10, but ended up staying in a third hour. South at LG 1 seemed most consistent, so EY, Neil, Mark and I spread out there for a couple of hours while various of the tribe joined Crawdaddy as he filmed from shore: Ciaccio, Steve Short and Kahuna all showed for a bit. Sticks drifted through from time to time, but we had it largely to ourselves.
After a couple of hours, the others (in & out of the water) filtered off to breakfast at Cafe de Sole, but Mark and I stayed in another hour. As we gradually drifted the 1/4 mile back to the stairs, we were rewarded by one of the best sets of the day as we passed by the rock area.
Three memorable rides today:
EY was straight down the line as I took off on a shoulder-high left, offering a hi five. I rose on the face for a solid connection, then spun as I reached the lip and rolled down the face into the close out.
Second was a perfectly formed, big left. Taking off, I pushed to beat the foamball and took a high line onto a sloping, open face that gradually steepened. As it morphed, I dropped down into the mid-face slot and was rewarded with a little tube time before the close out.
Last, as we drifted back North, a nice, clean set off the rock offered another clean left, approaching head high...with no sticks!
I know Crawdaddy shot a lot today; will look forward to seeing if he got anything. Will post the line in my next post.
Meanwhile, here's the link to his memorial of EY's birthday, our frustration and the passing pod from last weekend.
I had figured to surf from 8 to 10, but ended up staying in a third hour. South at LG 1 seemed most consistent, so EY, Neil, Mark and I spread out there for a couple of hours while various of the tribe joined Crawdaddy as he filmed from shore: Ciaccio, Steve Short and Kahuna all showed for a bit. Sticks drifted through from time to time, but we had it largely to ourselves.
After a couple of hours, the others (in & out of the water) filtered off to breakfast at Cafe de Sole, but Mark and I stayed in another hour. As we gradually drifted the 1/4 mile back to the stairs, we were rewarded by one of the best sets of the day as we passed by the rock area.
Three memorable rides today:
EY was straight down the line as I took off on a shoulder-high left, offering a hi five. I rose on the face for a solid connection, then spun as I reached the lip and rolled down the face into the close out.
Second was a perfectly formed, big left. Taking off, I pushed to beat the foamball and took a high line onto a sloping, open face that gradually steepened. As it morphed, I dropped down into the mid-face slot and was rewarded with a little tube time before the close out.
Last, as we drifted back North, a nice, clean set off the rock offered another clean left, approaching head high...with no sticks!
I know Crawdaddy shot a lot today; will look forward to seeing if he got anything. Will post the line in my next post.
Meanwhile, here's the link to his memorial of EY's birthday, our frustration and the passing pod from last weekend.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Visitors at High Tide
I feared that the high tide would swamp the modest swell, but that there might be a small window if I gotthe Park a couple of hours before the peak. Besides, it's EY's birthday - gotta show - and a spectacularly beautiful winter morning.
Unfortunately, the fear was well founded, and even at 7:40 it was already swamped. A nice, well-defined 3-4 foot swell, coming in too fat and crumbly for decent bodysurfing - all save the set waves were surging up to the rocks. Really best suited for a long board, but Sailfish (Mark Ghattas) & I suited up and swam right out from the steps while Crawdaddy, still confined to the shore, post-surgery, for a few more weeks, watched and shot a little video. EY_\ (Eric Yeisley) showed up shortly to swim out in the chilly (56) water and collect birthday greetings, while Too Tall (Steve Short) joined Crawdaddy, watching from shore.
Sailfish, assisted by a handboard, managed to snag a few long ones, but for me, it was mostly frustration and alot of kicking for a couple of hours. A few local surfers in the water, hanging around the main peak with us. Sunny and glassy, if the tide had been decent, would have been a classic winter morning.
A large pod of dolphin had been hanging around, and after we exited, lolled in the break straight out from the steps while Hugh, a late arrival, and I shot a few pictures:
Click on either photo to see large.
I also stitched several together into a short video that also gives a glimpse of the beauty of the Park on a sunny winter morning. You can view by clicking here or on the title above. View the video in 1080p HD.
Even if the surf left alot to be desired, you still have to love a morning like this in early March!
Unfortunately, the fear was well founded, and even at 7:40 it was already swamped. A nice, well-defined 3-4 foot swell, coming in too fat and crumbly for decent bodysurfing - all save the set waves were surging up to the rocks. Really best suited for a long board, but Sailfish (Mark Ghattas) & I suited up and swam right out from the steps while Crawdaddy, still confined to the shore, post-surgery, for a few more weeks, watched and shot a little video. EY_\ (Eric Yeisley) showed up shortly to swim out in the chilly (56) water and collect birthday greetings, while Too Tall (Steve Short) joined Crawdaddy, watching from shore.
Sailfish, assisted by a handboard, managed to snag a few long ones, but for me, it was mostly frustration and alot of kicking for a couple of hours. A few local surfers in the water, hanging around the main peak with us. Sunny and glassy, if the tide had been decent, would have been a classic winter morning.
A large pod of dolphin had been hanging around, and after we exited, lolled in the break straight out from the steps while Hugh, a late arrival, and I shot a few pictures:
Click on either photo to see large.
I also stitched several together into a short video that also gives a glimpse of the beauty of the Park on a sunny winter morning. You can view by clicking here or on the title above. View the video in 1080p HD.
Even if the surf left alot to be desired, you still have to love a morning like this in early March!
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Jones
Last water time - February 14.
As recounted in the last entry, the 20th/21st was windblown chop. The next weekend, Sunday (28th), the Park was firing big - up to 12 foot faces - but unmanageable due to strong currents and tides, and full of debris. Reports from Neil and Mark in Newport was that it was not surfable. This past weekend, it stormed Saturday (3/6) through the early morning hours of Sunday, leaving Sunday small, windblown and dirty.
Late December through mid-February brought a great run of swells and decent conditions. This weekend will make it a month since last water time. Unfortunately, current forecasts are for a small weekend and perhaps questionable conditions.
If there's no surf this weekend, the last time I would have gone this long without surf was late 2008, a year & a quarter ago.
What's one to do, but relive through photo & video? On Jan 9, Hugh shot a series of still sequences that he gave me. I'd put some of the stills up on Picasa, but while reliving a sparkling, sunny, winter morning, experimenting with FlipShare, I knitted together a video of the sequences and put it up on YouTube. Turned out ok.
Gotta deal with the jones somehow.
As recounted in the last entry, the 20th/21st was windblown chop. The next weekend, Sunday (28th), the Park was firing big - up to 12 foot faces - but unmanageable due to strong currents and tides, and full of debris. Reports from Neil and Mark in Newport was that it was not surfable. This past weekend, it stormed Saturday (3/6) through the early morning hours of Sunday, leaving Sunday small, windblown and dirty.
Late December through mid-February brought a great run of swells and decent conditions. This weekend will make it a month since last water time. Unfortunately, current forecasts are for a small weekend and perhaps questionable conditions.
If there's no surf this weekend, the last time I would have gone this long without surf was late 2008, a year & a quarter ago.
What's one to do, but relive through photo & video? On Jan 9, Hugh shot a series of still sequences that he gave me. I'd put some of the stills up on Picasa, but while reliving a sparkling, sunny, winter morning, experimenting with FlipShare, I knitted together a video of the sequences and put it up on YouTube. Turned out ok.
Gotta deal with the jones somehow.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Indecision
Ah, the dilemma of a dedicated surfer who lives 40 minutes from the closest water and 72 miles from his favored break!
Last weekend, the forecast was for a decent, head-high swell, favorable tides, and clear skies...but onshore winds upwards of 15 mph through the morning. After deliberation, made the call to pass. Right call, as reports were of nothing but sloppy chop.
A bit harder call for this weekend. Today, it's just small and totally blown by the storm passing through. But a large swell is supposed to fill in tonight, with waves several feet overhead and clean conditions - maybe a mild offshore. Would be ideal, but for two things: a 6.25 foot high tide at 8:30 and the bacteria in the run-off.
If the tide was favorable, would take my chances with the bacteria. Two weeks ago, very similar forecasts - slightly smaller swell but clean conditions and a 5.4 high at 8:50. The first hour of surf was great, then it got a bit fat as the tide peaked and stayed that way well into the morning. With nearly an extra foot of tide and earlier peak, it's likely to be ridable but fairly crumbly for the whole session. Is it worth it??
In the meanwhile, take a look at some very large storm waves in the Park from mid-January.
Last weekend, the forecast was for a decent, head-high swell, favorable tides, and clear skies...but onshore winds upwards of 15 mph through the morning. After deliberation, made the call to pass. Right call, as reports were of nothing but sloppy chop.
A bit harder call for this weekend. Today, it's just small and totally blown by the storm passing through. But a large swell is supposed to fill in tonight, with waves several feet overhead and clean conditions - maybe a mild offshore. Would be ideal, but for two things: a 6.25 foot high tide at 8:30 and the bacteria in the run-off.
If the tide was favorable, would take my chances with the bacteria. Two weeks ago, very similar forecasts - slightly smaller swell but clean conditions and a 5.4 high at 8:50. The first hour of surf was great, then it got a bit fat as the tide peaked and stayed that way well into the morning. With nearly an extra foot of tide and earlier peak, it's likely to be ridable but fairly crumbly for the whole session. Is it worth it??
In the meanwhile, take a look at some very large storm waves in the Park from mid-January.
Monday, February 15, 2010
More Park Perfection
One of my first waves didn't have an optimal outcome, but some of the size from Sunday is evident. This one was a close out...other waves were better formed & better ridden!
Another photo by Hugh Berenger (click for full size)
I put up a video of the swell, after the session (after the peak and not as clean) on YouTube - click here or the title above.
I put up a video of the swell, after the session (after the peak and not as clean) on YouTube - click here or the title above.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Park Perfection
Great morning at San Clemente State Park!
Before the tide peaked at about 9, consistent sets to a few feet overhead...glassy, sunny...and five bodysurfers had all to ourselves!
Photo by Hugh Berenger, second day out with his water rig. Click for full size.
More of Hugh's water photos from this AM at flickr
Before the tide peaked at about 9, consistent sets to a few feet overhead...glassy, sunny...and five bodysurfers had all to ourselves!
Photo by Hugh Berenger, second day out with his water rig. Click for full size.
More of Hugh's water photos from this AM at flickr
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