Santa Arrived Early!

Santa Monica, that is!  Yes, really.  

Santa's gift was that much more than expected of yesterday's swell lingered over into this morning ... but, unlike yesterday, the conditions (if not water quality) were clean, wind calm and sun out.

Got a morning text from (son) Allan, who lives on Bay Street - just South of the Santa Monica pier - a block from the water, that there was definite size, if a little walled, but fun and with some corners to be found.  Shortly, another followed, forwarding a text from his friend, Mike Gross, in Venice, with a photo showing overhead surf with shape:

While I woke Joe, who got in late last night from New York, loaded the car and set out from Pasadena, Allan and his friend, Fuzzy, scouted Venice and Santa Monica up to Chautauqua.  Final destination, concluded as we pulled out of the I-10/PCH tunnel: Bay Street.

As we pulled into the lot at Bay Street, the sun had come out and a series of clean, if a bit closed out, overhead sets rolled in.  First surprise as I finned up and waded out, about 10:45, was that the water wasn't all that cold - close to 60.  No visible debris, either, even though we were just South of the Pico wash.  Next surprise was that, though there was a mild cross-breeze from the South, the surface was glassy and the NW swell clean and organized.  Though a few more plus sets came in, height backed off a foot or so but a regular parade of head-high+ rights and lefts, not quite so hollow, presented itself over the next 45 minutes.  

Other than Joe, Allan & Fuzzy, all on boards, there were only four other surfers scattered across several blocks above & below Bay Street.  Another friend, Schwimer, paddled out in full winter suit, including billed hood, and took his usual control over the break.  

Eventually, the breeze picked up and shifted West to onshore, as the surface textured and organization suffered.  But before that, I scored a good half-dozen, head-high...a couple plus...solid slides.  Only one was particularly steep and fast, a big, overhead, right barrel that I dropped into and started to line up into the slot.  It was going to be a short ride, close out in maybe 20 feet, but a nice tube was promised.  Unfortunately, one of the sticks was paddling out and the line I needed to follow to hold the wave headed directly across his path, so I had to exit early.  But good vibe held and he waved his apology.

In the lot afterward, came upon Schwimer, sporting the red/white/blue, NBA-logo style, t-shirt I'd given him last year, worn with pride.  Told me he used it to explain to the spongers up North that they outta try it without a flotation device.

As with last year, on December 20 in Venice, it was a rare treat to share the water with both Joe and Allan.  And this year was much better - an excellent day of surf!  In Santa Monica, no less!

Thanks, Santa!

Filling the Days ... the First of a Series

As we sit through the deluge that's inundating Southern California and reflect upon a Fall that's been the "dryest" (for bodysurfing sessions0 of many years, while anticipating a Winter marked with consistent swells to balance the books, one is want to daydream of sessions past.

With that in mind, I thought I'd fill the dearth of real-time stories with a series of photos from the past, either shot by me or picturing me, in memorable sessions.

This was from a surprising session at the Wedge that I shot in early August, 2006.  The water was cold, but the swell was much bigger than projected. Jeff Lashbrook, pictured here, and his son Chris met me on the peninsula at 16th Street, mid-morning. The original plan was to meet and go out around 16th, but I'd been down to the Wedge earlier in the morning and had found a growing swell and gradually receding fog. Jeff was anxious to get to it, so we headed down as the blackball went up, to find faces of up to 15 feet at the peak, great shape and almost nobody in the water. Jeff surprised me by jumping in, swimming out and taking off on the first wave to come in - a real bomb - pictured above. Later, I got Joe to come join us. I've some nice shots of Joe and Chris, as well, that perhaps I'll share later.

July 25, 2009; San Clemente State Park.  Though one of the smaller waves this day, the best day of 2009, it's one of my favorite shots from the day.  This was the biggest day of the last two or three years, but the waves were extraordinarily well formed at the Park that day.  Russell Riopelle chose to shoot rather than swim out as Mark Ghattas, Rick Ciaccio, Joe (Haldeman), Hugh and I (and others?) got some of the best surf I've every had at the Park.

This shot is about 1/2 way through this particular wave...and a long way to go yet!  What makes the photo a favorite is not only the outstanding shape of the wave but also the inclusion of Mark, enjoying the role of spectator on this one.

As I hope for a session to break the surf drought later this week, I'll put up a few more of these reminiscences.

As always, click on photos for full size....

Wet Again in the Park

Through the week, forecasts for today had gradually turned negative, from 2-4 feet down to 1-2, with Surfline even saying yesterday that the Park would be flat by midmorning.  But the swell charts themselves showed an interesting mix of small swells that often make the Park peaky & fun.  Add to that four weeks dry and predictions for a sunny morning with favorable conditions (tide & wind), and I elected to make the journey South.

As the picture above and those that follow show, it was a good decision.  Big isn't everything; there were regular waist and chest high waves coming in, a glassy surface, occasional mild offshore breeze and lots of peaks.

 

I got to the Park a bit after 8:00.  There were a few surfers out at LG1, probably campers making a long weekend out of Veterans Day, but the main peak was basically empty.  Immediately suited up - the water having dropped to about 60, full suit for the first time since last Spring - and swam out, not waiting for Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas to arrive.  I was immediately rewarded with a chest-high right with an open tube giving a couple seconds' view of a sparkling tunnel opening across a glittering surface with Cotton's Point beyond.

 

Mark joined me shortly, and we worked the South side of the main peak for about 90 minutes as it gradually filled in with local sticks and a couple of spongers.  Vibe in the water was great; everybody enjoying the fun little peaks and sunny morning.

As the main peak was getting a bit crowded, we swam down to LG1 and continued on, another hour.  Sailfish kept nailing long, to the shore, lefts, working them with his handboard.

Ultimately 2-1/2 hours of very fun surf on a beautiful morning.  What a great way to quench the thirst!

As always, click on any photo for full size....  For my East Coast friends, here's a link to a couple of video clips shot after today's session with a couple of decent stick rides:  SCSP 11-13-10 or click the blog's headline.

 

A Rare Fall Session - belated post

A belated post for my mid-October session...in the middle of a fall in which I've been getting very little surf!

This weekend, I couldn't go out Saturday and today was projected to be flat. Last weekend we had the first rains of the season, and the morning high tide dampened expectations.

Two weeks ago, though, was a fun session. A shot of the shoulder-high peak is below, and a click on the title above, or on this link [Park Peak in Fall] is a short video.

Park Peak Left

So, two weeks ago, it was just Sailfish and me in a mild drizzle that continued through the morning. Despite the drizzle, it wasn't really chilly and the water temp was comfortable in the shorty at 66-67.

The surf was fun, head high at the main peak & LG 1 from 8:45 to 11:15. North of main peak, it was hollow and packed quite a bit of juice. The conditions were clean, mostly glassy, even through the drizzle. While more of the largest (head high+) sets were closed out, patience was rewarded with some good corners.

We had the main peak to ourselves for the best of it, early, and then moved south to LG1 when the peak filled it. Another hour down there, and then the last half-hour, slowly worked back up against the current all the way to the steps. In the last 15 minutes, just South of the steps, I got three of the best rides of the day, fast and hollow.

So much travel is getting in the way, and surf or conditions aren't cooperating in the weekends available, but the rare sessions this fall are treasured.

Back in the Park!

The drought is over and summer lingers!

We found a surprisingly decent swell - waist to shoulder high, plus - with a glassy surface and warm (67) water in the Park on Sunday. It was best from 8:15 - 9:30, during which a pod of six - Neil "Real Deal" Frank, Mark  "Sailfish" Ghattas, Russell "Riptide" Riopelle, Hugh "Huge" Berenger, local surfer morphing into bodysurfer Casey and I - had the Park ALL to ourselves.  The fun sized waves had enough pitch, even on the Park smallies, for some decent tube time as we spread out around the main peak.

About 9:30, as the approaching high tide started swamping it out, creating a beach break only really suited for bodysurfing, five or six 'glass riders appeared but graciously continued to share the main peak with the encumbents of the body.

The warmer water, mild south swell, clear skies and building heat made it seem for all the world a quintessential summer day...entirely welcome to one who's been in dry dock since early August!!!

Words escape me, to convey how welcome it was to return to the womb, the water, the waves after the longest absence in many years. Ah...to be wet again!

Anticipation....NOT!

OK, returning from abroad today and looking to the first weekend in town since August 7 where my health will permit me to surf and this is what I see (courtesy of SurfLine):

ZERO to ONE?!?!?!  Both Saturday & Sunday?  Report - ankle to knee & poor???

After this weekend, traveling again, the next two weekends.  My next shot at water time is October 16.  I haven't gone this long in years!!

Anticipation?  More like FRUStration!

Dry Dock

Yet another solid weekend swell for Southern California - perhaps the fourth in the last six weeks.  Under normal circumstances, I would be bronzed and exhausted about this point.  Unfortunately, not!

The great news is that this week, I'm finally fully recovered from a battle with pneumonia that dates back to August 6th.  Unfortunately, while I'm fit to go now, the only water close by is the Thames, and no swell is showing there...not even in recognition of the Pope's visit here in London.  

Ah, well...hope the boys back home get a bit of action this weekend and share story and photo.  Meanwhile, I'll be back in SoCal next weekend, dearly hoping for a reprise of this weekend as I get seek to get in my first real surf session in seven weeks!

It's not been a normal summer....