Sunday, September 7, 2014

Sizeable Swell to Celebrate the Stentor of Stoke

The large swell that's been traveling up from New Zealand over the last week arrived on time late Friday to greet this year's sojourn by the Stentor of Stoke, Eric Yeisley, back to his hunting grounds in the State Park.

Before moving to Colorado, EY_\ was the glue binding the Golden Triangle - SCSP's looseknit bodsurfing association - together.  


Golden Triangle founders Hugh Berenger & Eric Yeisley semaphore the ohana's /_\ logo
 Now, on his once-a-year visits, the tribe gathers, this year finding a solid swell to celebrate the visit.  
Solid swell draws scores of sticks to the Main Peak
While the Main Peak was densely populated by board surfers, the area at the bottom of the path down from the Park in front of LG1 and King's Korner to the south were given over to the band of the body.  When I arrived there were already 13 heads out in the water, mixing up long left shoulder slides on the inside waves with tubular action on the sets waves.  Solid, 4' - 8' surf, carrying a lot of power in the long-interval swell.  Though smaller than the hurricane waves of preceding weeks, the much longer period created more power per foot of swell...the quest of the bodysurfer.

Crawdaddy got some fun footage of the pod



In the water, joining the itinerant EY_\, were original GT/_\ core members Hugh "Huge" Berenger, Chuck "Kahuna" Herpick, Brent "Crawdaddy" Crawford and Derrik "MuDsHaRk" Sciarra.  GT regular Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas (duck model above) joined long-timers Steven "Hawk" Harkins and Eric (nickname omitted) Ackerman.  Bret "da threat" Belyea made it up from SD county for his occasional visit, with a buddy in tow, while SC denizen and frequent Park-er Shawn O'Gorman drew several friends of the SC Waveriders into the water.  There were a few I didn't know, and apologies to those I've overlooked!

While the sticks fought it out further north,


the extended GT ohana enjoyed our stretch over a couple of hours.

Photo - Heather O'Gorman

Ashore, the stoke of the stentor shouted out, "We've been Pastor-ized!"

Crawdaddy, Sailfish, EA, EY_\, MuDsHaRk - Photo Kahuna

MuDsHaRk, Kahuna, Crawdadday, "Pastor" Hank - Photo Sailfish



Friday, August 29, 2014

...Meanwhile, Back at the Park...

After a couple of days sidelined by Marie to spectator status, it was great to get back in the water at SCSP today.  Nothing epic, not even picaresque, but actually an excellent session.  

Paul Tordella and I met at the Calafia lot, to find shoulder - sometimes head - high, glassy, peaky surf on a nearly deserted break.  



The water was cooler - maybe 67 at first - but I still trunked it comfortably for over 1.5 hours.  The early photos don't show it, but it was sunny throughout, yet the glossy surface remained undisturbed.  


Paul and I found the stretch between the Main Peak and the Rocks empty, and worked long lefts and occasional tubes alone for most the session until a couple of sticks decided to paddle out exactly where we were and endeavor to take every wave ... whether they could make it or not.  Not nearly enough, though, to spoil a sweet session.  Dozens of waves, sliding along glossy, shoulder-high ramps, deep into the inside.  


Just the day for a guy about this size:


Not writing a lot today ... off to see if the peninsula has morphed into somewhere amenable to an evening surf.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Postscript: Marie

Let's be clear.  The waves today did not match those of yesterday, nor, unfortunately, do the pictures.  I hesitate to offer more, as they don't really compare, but there was still a lot of Wedge energy, and some great rides by incredible surfers.  So, with that in mind, I offer a modest postscript to yesterday's photoessay.

Today, I arrive just as the blackball went up.  It was a pleasure to meet a star of yesterday's photos - including both the first two in yesterday's blog, my favorites of the day - Teddy Banderuk, to meet Chris Colima and greet Starkey. 




Mel Thoman had already entered the water, and I failed to capture his early ride.


But, I did catch a few moments, as 10 - 18 foot surfed pulsed through:



































Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Hurricane Marie (Swell) Invades Newport ... the photos!

First, my two photos of the day:



So, few words are necessary.  This is a story for the photos...just some scene setting.  Several days ago, Marie spun west from below Cabo, a Cat 5 hurricane, and threw what's likely the largest swell pulse sent into Southern California since Hurricane Linda in 1997 followed a very similar path at similar wind strength.  An epic swell was headed for Newport, from ideal direction for both the Point and Wedge, peaking Wednesday.

My perspective is that the Point is a surf-boarders wave; Wedge a bodysurfers wave.  So, prior to the 10:00 black ball at Wedge, I first went down to catch the fiberglass action at the Point.  At heights reaching triple overhead, the Point was doing the best it could to mimic Pipeline in Southern California:



Even as I left the 6th Street area at 8:45, traffic headed toward the end of the peninsula, and Wedge, was thick.  As I biked north on the strand, waves boomed and whitewater soared into view over the berms pushed into position last night in defense of the waterfront homes.  Ahead, I could see several hundred people lining the waterline from 16th to 19th, awash with SLRs and VideoCams on tripods and hundreds of hands holding iPhones overhead.

In the sequence below, two surfers share a Point macker.  Both were fully covered up.  The first emerged to applause from the beach.  A full three seconds later - an eternity in the tube! - the second emerged from much deeper, very pumped:








After a half hour of observing the most impressive Newport Point action ever (for me), I turned back south on the bike.  Over on the boulevard, I could see that traffic was now backed up past 18th street - nearly 3 miles north of Wedge.  

On arrival, weaving my way through the thick, milling crowd on the outskirts of the thick band of hundreds lining the shore from the jetty out to Cylinders, I approached the Wedge Crew base area.  Jeff Mitchell strolled over, wondering at what point surf became un-bodysurf-able.  Sean Starky strolled over, very relaxed, to say hi.




The blackball went up at 10:00, but it took another 45 minutes for the thick of fiberglass and bodyboards to thin out.  Most of the crew waited it out a bit, but Sean was swimming out shortly after the flag went up.  Within a few minutes, he'd already snagged a few smaller rides before heading out to the lineup.


Gradually the crew and other bodysurfing adventurers filled in as the flotation devices exited.  Bearded Thomas Van Mellum showed up, his shaved pate white with sunblock, consulted those ashore and quickly joined the gaggle of surfers in the water.


For a period, Starky and TVM dominated the break, between them representing the majority of waves caught.  Jeff Mitchell tucked his curls into a waterpolo cap and joined them.  I saw Jeff master several artful slides deep into the inside, each time swimming shore to stroll back up the beach to the entry point by the jetty.


From here, let the photos speak.  Note that any can be seen, full rez, by clicking on the photo: