Saturday, February 27, 2010


Ah, the dilemma of a dedicated surfer who lives 40 minutes from the closest water and 72 miles from his favored break!

Last weekend, the forecast was for a decent, head-high swell, favorable tides, and clear skies...but onshore winds upwards of 15 mph through the morning. After deliberation, made the call to pass. Right call, as reports were of nothing but sloppy chop.

A bit harder call for this weekend. Today, it's just small and totally blown by the storm passing through. But a large swell is supposed to fill in tonight, with waves several feet overhead and clean conditions - maybe a mild offshore. Would be ideal, but for two things: a 6.25 foot high tide at 8:30 and the bacteria in the run-off.

If the tide was favorable, would take my chances with the bacteria. Two weeks ago, very similar forecasts - slightly smaller swell but clean conditions and a 5.4 high at 8:50. The first hour of surf was great, then it got a bit fat as the tide peaked and stayed that way well into the morning. With nearly an extra foot of tide and earlier peak, it's likely to be ridable but fairly crumbly for the whole session. Is it worth it??

In the meanwhile, take a look at some very large storm waves in the Park from mid-January.

Monday, February 15, 2010

More Park Perfection

One of my first waves didn't have an optimal outcome, but some of the size from Sunday is evident. This one was a close out...other waves were better formed & better ridden!
Another photo by Hugh Berenger (click for full size)
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I put up a video of the swell, after the session (after the peak and not as clean) on YouTube - click here or the title above.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Park Perfection

Great morning at San Clemente State Park!

Before the tide peaked at about 9, consistent sets to a few feet overhead...glassy, sunny...and five bodysurfers had all to ourselves!

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Photo by Hugh Berenger, second day out with his water rig. Click for full size.
More of Hugh's water photos from this AM at flickr