Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Back in the Park!

The drought is over and summer lingers!

We found a surprisingly decent swell - waist to shoulder high, plus - with a glassy surface and warm (67) water in the Park on Sunday. It was best from 8:15 - 9:30, during which a pod of six - Neil "Real Deal" Frank, Mark  "Sailfish" Ghattas, Russell "Riptide" Riopelle, Hugh "Huge" Berenger, local surfer morphing into bodysurfer Casey and I - had the Park ALL to ourselves.  The fun sized waves had enough pitch, even on the Park smallies, for some decent tube time as we spread out around the main peak.

About 9:30, as the approaching high tide started swamping it out, creating a beach break only really suited for bodysurfing, five or six 'glass riders appeared but graciously continued to share the main peak with the encumbents of the body.

The warmer water, mild south swell, clear skies and building heat made it seem for all the world a quintessential summer day...entirely welcome to one who's been in dry dock since early August!!!

Words escape me, to convey how welcome it was to return to the womb, the water, the waves after the longest absence in many years. Ah...to be wet again!

Posted by Picasa

Wednesday, September 22, 2010


OK, returning from abroad today and looking to the first weekend in town since August 7 where my health will permit me to surf and this is what I see (courtesy of SurfLine):

ZERO to ONE?!?!?!  Both Saturday & Sunday?  Report - ankle to knee & poor???

After this weekend, traveling again, the next two weekends.  My next shot at water time is October 16.  I haven't gone this long in years!!

Anticipation?  More like FRUStration!

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Dry Dock

Yet another solid weekend swell for Southern California - perhaps the fourth in the last six weeks.  Under normal circumstances, I would be bronzed and exhausted about this point.  Unfortunately, not!

The great news is that this week, I'm finally fully recovered from a battle with pneumonia that dates back to August 6th.  Unfortunately, while I'm fit to go now, the only water close by is the Thames, and no swell is showing there...not even in recognition of the Pope's visit here in London.  

Ah, well...hope the boys back home get a bit of action this weekend and share story and photo.  Meanwhile, I'll be back in SoCal next weekend, dearly hoping for a reprise of this weekend as I get seek to get in my first real surf session in seven weeks!

It's not been a normal summer....