Fall Arrives in the Park

First good fall surf today; the best surf I've been in since late August.

Arrived at the Calafia lot at 7:45, met EY there and scoped it out. Shoulder to Head-High peaks were scattered from Riviera to LG1, with surfers spread throughout but not too densely. Main Peak had best size and consistency but also the greatest density of fiberglass. Straight out from Calafia and a bit North had some decent size but more closed out and less consistent. There were a few surfers out, down at LG1 but it seemed pretty consistent. We headed down past Main Peak & the Rock, to the North side of LG1.

It was generally glassy, with a mild off-shore ocassionally putting a slight texture on the water. The water temperature at about 63 made it nice and refreshing, never chilly, with full rubber. At first overcast, with the sun occasionally peeking through, it cleared into a beautiful morning around 9:30.

As we swam out, there were three kneeboards and one standup, spread between the Rock and LG1, which left plenty of opportunities for EY & me to snag clean, fast rights with very hollow barrels. The sets were coming it at shoulder to head high, even a few pluses and with no long lulls. Most offered nice open faces and few closeouts. Sand bars were creating nice bowls at several spots.

Snagged a tight, fast right peak on a set wave, which curled over and hollowed around me into a deep turquoise tunnel that glowed in the filtered sunlight. Came up with the song title on my lips and said to EY as I saw back out, "Crystal Blue Persuasion."

Nothing but fun.

After an hour at LG1, the sticks at the Main Peak had thinned out. EY snagged a long right that took him to shore well to the south, so he beached and walked up. I swam back up, catching an ocassional ride along the way.

Just North of the Rock, a nice left was regularly forming on set waves, so I worked that alone for while. After a bit, a young Hawaiian surfer paddled over and worked the peak for a while with me.

Shortly after EY exited around 9:30, I spotted Hugh, working the North side of the Main Peak. For the next hour, Hugh and I shared the peaks between the Rock & Main Peak, with maybe five or six stand ups. I only got cut off once, and was even given a couple of waves. Good vibe all morning...plenty to go around.

Finally gave in to tired legs and complaining stomache about 10:20.

It wasn't real big, but it was good sized, clean and peaky. It wasn't real powerful, but plenty fast and hollow. Only thing that would have made it better would have been a few more of the pod out!