Despite forecasts for only waist, maybe chest, high surf, in honor of the return to Colorado day for Eric " EY_\ " Yeisley, founding core member of the Golden Triangle (our San Clemente State Park bodysurfing tribe), we put out the call:
Thou who art dry of gill, come forth and moisten thy piscine lungs
Ye who walk lonely upon the earth come bask in the sea of brotherhood.
Thou who are waning of spirit, drink in the living aura of Gaia
Come ye all, emerse thyselves in the water and emerge freshed and with energy
Ye of the body are called to the Park. Smallies await ye.
Expectations for surf were modest, but the Park really delivered!
Upon arrival, a fairly stiff South wind, grey skies and cool air made it seem much more like winter, but there several swells showing good height, regularly into the head high range, and the wind didn't seem to be messing it up too much. Eric had arrived, with Joanna and a box of pastry. Crawdaddy, Neil and Hugh were checking it out. Tim "Hacksaw" Hankins pulled in, having driven in from Phoenix, and his friend Mike from Strands joined us. Kahuna stopped by to pay respects but had to take off. Paul Tordella came down from South Bay with John Rogers.
After short debate over whether the wind was a problem, the tribe donned gear ranging from board shorts, to spring suits, to full suits and walked up by LG1 where the break was totally empty. Water was a still warm 68 and the first few waves showed that the mixture of swells would have no problem pushing through the wind for long rides over the textured surface.
Mark "Scrudz" Johnson from Huntington Beach's Chubasco showed, along with Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas. Near the end, Jeff "JPL" Lashbrook swam out.
Gradually, the wind relaxed through the morning and the touch of morning sickness cleared for a solid Park morning. Shoulder and head high peaks, some plusses, gave the pod a perfect stage on which to showcase the skills and variety of talent while the SC lifeguards watched. EY_\ was cleaning up the inside as usual...wave after King's Corner wave...spinner upon spinner.
For over two hours, we had the stretch from the rocks south to beyond LG1 much all to ourselves...just 15 heads in the water with plenty to go around. Quite an impressive showing for EY and his devotion to the Park.
Unfortunately, early in the session, I rolled my ankle pretty bad on a shallow rock on a close out - came down on the edge of the flat, submerged rock, then slid off, ripping the hip of my spring suit and leaving a few long, bleeding scratches along my wrist, hand and arm...looks like I've been donating at SUROL!
At first, I unsuccesfully tried continuing with the fin on, then switched to a single fin but that wasn't working in the deep water and fast swell. I finished out with both fins but favoring the side.
Wished I'd been able to take as much advantage as others of an excellent morning in the Park!
Sunday, June 27, 2010
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