Filling the Days ... the First of a Series

As we sit through the deluge that's inundating Southern California and reflect upon a Fall that's been the "dryest" (for bodysurfing sessions0 of many years, while anticipating a Winter marked with consistent swells to balance the books, one is want to daydream of sessions past.

With that in mind, I thought I'd fill the dearth of real-time stories with a series of photos from the past, either shot by me or picturing me, in memorable sessions.

This was from a surprising session at the Wedge that I shot in early August, 2006.  The water was cold, but the swell was much bigger than projected. Jeff Lashbrook, pictured here, and his son Chris met me on the peninsula at 16th Street, mid-morning. The original plan was to meet and go out around 16th, but I'd been down to the Wedge earlier in the morning and had found a growing swell and gradually receding fog. Jeff was anxious to get to it, so we headed down as the blackball went up, to find faces of up to 15 feet at the peak, great shape and almost nobody in the water. Jeff surprised me by jumping in, swimming out and taking off on the first wave to come in - a real bomb - pictured above. Later, I got Joe to come join us. I've some nice shots of Joe and Chris, as well, that perhaps I'll share later.

July 25, 2009; San Clemente State Park.  Though one of the smaller waves this day, the best day of 2009, it's one of my favorite shots from the day.  This was the biggest day of the last two or three years, but the waves were extraordinarily well formed at the Park that day.  Russell Riopelle chose to shoot rather than swim out as Mark Ghattas, Rick Ciaccio, Joe (Haldeman), Hugh and I (and others?) got some of the best surf I've every had at the Park.

This shot is about 1/2 way through this particular wave...and a long way to go yet!  What makes the photo a favorite is not only the outstanding shape of the wave but also the inclusion of Mark, enjoying the role of spectator on this one.

As I hope for a session to break the surf drought later this week, I'll put up a few more of these reminiscences.

As always, click on photos for full size....