Even though it had been three weeks since there had been anything to surf on a weekend, and shoulder-high peaks were presenting on a glossy surface, the Park was oddly uninviting as I checked it out from the rail.
The sky was grey, the air cool and the water looked even colder. The sticks were nabbing rides but nothing impressive. Usually, I'd be just itching to get in, but I was slow, suiting up as I awaited Mark's arrival. Maybe that run of sparkling winter mornings with head high surf and little competition for waves in the water has jaded me? I remember years past when something like this would have me jumping.
Even with the 4-3, the water was cold getting in. Not as cold as some prior years, but at least the equal of the coldest of the 2011-12 season. 55-56 degrees. It was a thankfully easy swim out and a nice set promptly arrived. A soft right shoulder evolved gradually into a steeper face and, eventually, a nice open tube. Maybe it wouldn't be so bad.... There were others over the next hour-plus, making the morning well worthwhile.
Pickings were a bit slim, and there were more sticks out than would have been expected for the conditions, but the vibe in the water was mellow; good chatter & respect. However,there were some long lulls during which the chill of the water, unbroken by a warming sun, would seep in. Though the swell was forecast to be increasing and the tide was coming in, after the first half-hour, the sets were missing the sandbars and we moved inside to the inner shorebreak. Smaller, it was actually playfully fun surf and, thankfully, more frequent. Nonetheless, after a short, 90 minute session, it seemed enough.
Pickings were a bit slim, and there were more sticks out than would have been expected for the conditions, but the vibe in the water was mellow; good chatter & respect. However,there were some long lulls during which the chill of the water, unbroken by a warming sun, would seep in. Though the swell was forecast to be increasing and the tide was coming in, after the first half-hour, the sets were missing the sandbars and we moved inside to the inner shorebreak. Smaller, it was actually playfully fun surf and, thankfully, more frequent. Nonetheless, after a short, 90 minute session, it seemed enough.
We exited, grateful for something to surf but thinking of some earlier sessions of this exceptional season. Now I write, mid-week, looking at forecasts for blown-out conditions next weekend, wishing I'd appreciated the opportunity more, whilst it was here.
