This weekend was a Tale of Two Breaks
... I won't dwell on the first, Del Mar on Friday morning, and will
largely allow Hugh's photos to speak for the second, SCSP this (Sunday)
morning.
Having
spent a couple of nights in Del Mar, a few minutes on foot from the
17th St. LG headquarters, with a building swell, I thought an early
session would be fun. While there was swell - shoulder high and
sometimes head high - it was pretty crumbly overall. I wore the 3/2
suit, and was chilled during a 90 minute session characterized by long
lulls. Directly in front of the guard station, I had the peak there to
myself, with nobody within a block, either direction.
More interesting to talk about was this morning's session at the Park, as evidenced below!
(Remember to click on photo for full resolution.) As is shown, the Park was serving up some good size hollowness, ranging shoulder to head high, with a few plusses.
Mark
(Sailfish) Ghattas was out with his handplane, getting his share of the
steep ones, between some very long slides on the peaky waves created by
the multiple swells.
About mid-session, we were joined by a younger, local guy by the name of
Jesse, also with handplane. I thought Jesse might have been a holdover
from yesterday's "Handplane Hoedown," but he's a UCSD student from San
Clemente who was out on his board yesterday at Black's. It's all too
rare, but so welcome, to encounter younger surfers that still practice
the fading art of bodysurfing.
A pod of dophin were cruising outside, through the morning, as we enjoyed the smooth, glassy tubes. Late in the session, a few moved inside, and a couple joined us
surfing. Hugh caught this guy in a backside, airborne entry. I am
barely offscreen to the right on this.
The ride commenced above, which I watched close-up in the water as Hugh
shot from shore, continued with a slide under the glossy surface,
punctuated several times' breaking the surface.
The immediately following wave was nearly identical, and I did my best to emulate the master that preceded me (below).
Sailfish had to leave after an hour. I completed a 90 minute session -
lots of waves between a few long lulls. We stayed throughout the
session at the secondary peak just north of the Main Peak, directly out
from the slide area. Not a single incursion from the gaggle of sticks
camped out on the Main Peak nor the pod of sponges that were directly in
front of the steps when we first swam out.
Just Mark, and me, and Jesse and the friend from Washington that he was introducing to bodysurfing, and some very fun waves.
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