Monday, October 27, 2014

Del Mar Beach Break at Its Best

I don't get to Del Mar beach break that often, but until today I didn't realize just how good it can be!

I enjoy surfing Del Mar because of the vibrant bodysurfing community there, anchored by the Del Mar BodySurfing Club; because of the daytime black ball, reserving two blocks centered on 17th Street, 365 days a year; and because it's a half-block walk from where I frequently stay when visiting North San Diego.  Those of us that don't live at the beach really appreciate the occasional luxury of suiting up before heading out to the water and returning to peel the wetsuit off in a hot shower!

I've had a number of fun days at Del Mar, but this morning beat them all, by a bunch.  Yesterday's swell continued to linger, with waves consistently breaking with 5, 6 and 7 foot faces.  Sometimes bigger.  As I walked through the park to the sand, sticks and sponges alike were ripping...getting tubed...full of stoke.  Most surfers were concentrated on the reef at 15th street, but peaks were showing all the way to the river mouth.

Again, the water was warm - 69 or 70 - as I waded out as far as I could before commencing the long swim out.  A steady, offshore breeze was combing the wave tops and texturing the surface outside, but inside was smooth and clean.  Overhead, the sky was cloudless.  As the early sun peeked over the Del Mar hills, the white froth of broken waves took on a glow.

My first wave was a big right.  Not terribly long, but hollow and pitching so that from deep inside I could see the lineup of sticks and glowing foam of the reef area to the south.  Clearly, though, some southwest swell had mixed in with yesterday's northwest swell, and my second wave was a long left with a soft shoulder that took me deep inside.

I swam out right in front of the 15th Street guard station and had to work continuously to maintain position against a strong current moving north to south.  A teenager surfing a stick was messing with a GoPro a half block to the south and another local stick was a hundred yards to the north.  For 90 minutes, no one was any closer, so I had my pick of waves.

I realize it was a weekday, but wondered where any of the DMBC were on such an excelllent morning.  Perfect, peaky swell; warm water; sunny skies; offshore breeze.  Does Del Mar get any better than this?

You know it's a good session when a stick paddles by to the following exchange:

"Good, man, you?"
"I'd swap my board for my Churchills right now. You're getting shacked every second."

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