Filtered through the smoke of an uncontained wildfire to the north, the early morning sun Saturday was a blood-red disk. Ash drifting like a light snowfall had accumulated overnight and the smell of fire hung heavy in the air. My thoughts turned to Nicaragua, where trash fires and/or jungle clearing had presented the same sun each dawn.
With triple-digit heat rising throughout inland SoCal, it was discordant to find Newport shrouded in fog as I arrived at 15th Street about 8:30. Through the fog, I could discern the incoming sets, head high, heavy and fairly closed out.
However, crossed signals found Mark at the Park (San Clemente) at 8:30 this morning and he reported that the Park was breaking well - peaky and fun-looking - though rather heavily populated by board surfers. Nonetheless, figuring that, most often, we can find an unpopulated peak in Park, we settled on San Clemente (my preference from the start) and I got back on the road for the 40 minute drive South.
Good call! Checking from the steps, I found Mark stationed about 1/3 of the way south to Main Peak. Beyond him, at Main Peak, maybe 20 surfers were clumped in a narrow take off zone. 150 yards north, Mark was alone. Now running an hour behind plan, I only watched for a couple of minutes (and only took a couple of shots), but in the few minutes that I watched several nice lefts, approaching head-high, peeled across where Mark was set up. Unfortunately, I didn't catch any shots of Mark riding one.
Following a quick change into my trunks, I was swimming out in comfortably cool water.
Following a quick change into my trunks, I was swimming out in comfortably cool water.
The late start lead to an abbreviated, one hour session. However, throughout, the sticks remained well south. Ashore, the beach rapidly filled with a heavy summer crowd seeking to escape the blistering heat inland, but the waders and boogie-boarders stuck to the shallow water inside.
Another attraction of going further south, the water was at least three degrees warmer - approaching if not exceeding 70. Skinning it, the cool water felt great against the warming day. The surf was a bit inconsistent, but shoulder high sets were common, with an occasional head-high wave or two. In addition to those peeling lefts, the peak we'd commandeered was regularly presenting a smaller right runner that ran pretty far inside.
A downside of San Clemente is that the Parks have shut off all the showers due the drought. Figuring I'd be in Newport, where the beach showers still work, I'd not brought my portable shower, so I was left to splash some water from a sink onto my face and drive home salty through the summer traffic and heat. A small price to pay.
Another attraction of going further south, the water was at least three degrees warmer - approaching if not exceeding 70. Skinning it, the cool water felt great against the warming day. The surf was a bit inconsistent, but shoulder high sets were common, with an occasional head-high wave or two. In addition to those peeling lefts, the peak we'd commandeered was regularly presenting a smaller right runner that ran pretty far inside.
A downside of San Clemente is that the Parks have shut off all the showers due the drought. Figuring I'd be in Newport, where the beach showers still work, I'd not brought my portable shower, so I was left to splash some water from a sink onto my face and drive home salty through the summer traffic and heat. A small price to pay.
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