Saturday, July 8, 2017

Scads of Summer Smallies

It was smaller than the 3-4 foot swell (about head-high) that had been forecast.  However, there was a growing south swell nonetheless, the water temperature was approaching 70, the surface was glassy, the skies were sunny, the waves were peaky and plentiful, and the respite from triple-digit inland heat most welcome!

Even small rights were hollow
Although there wasn't much in evidence when Mark and I arrived at the Park, we were surprised by the pack of a dozen surfers clumped right in the main peak area.

Further to the south, at LG1, directly below the Park, there appeared to be more consistency, better peaks, and no competition for waves.

Empty peaks at LG1.  Note the crowd at Cottons in upper left.

So we headed down there for nearly two hours of nearly uncontested waves.  The biggest may have gotten to chin-high height, but they were fun, peaky waves, with few lulls and gradually growing size.  Half-way through, Craig Thompson joined us, along with his daughter, and shortly after, another, unknown, bodysurfer swam out as well.  Spread over about 100 yards, no one had any problem getting his share of rides.

Skinning it for the first time since last summer was a luxury, and the GoPro gave me something to tinker with between waves.

Mark tucked under a right lip
The smooth surface persisted as the beach gradually filled in with beach-goers seeking relief from the inland heat.

View on take off of LG1 and the Park campsite above
Mark in a tiny right
By the time we were wrapping up, there were a few more sizeable waves coming in.  Late in the session, I spotted something outside and stroked out to greet a perfectly shaped left corner that might have approached head-high size.  It was great to be reminded of the forgotten sensation of actually sliding down a face before trimming up into the curl under the lip!

A few got some bigger waves
As we left, despite the fact that the surf was much better, and the wind had yet to mess it up at all, there was nearly no one at the Main Peak.  A small group of groms, messing around with soft-tops, had it all to themselves.

Sharing a wave
Different styling

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