Sunday, April 18, 2010

Hiatus, Interrupted

The calendar says last weekend in Florida, this weekend off to London, next weekend in DC, and the following in Hawaii; five weeks away from the Pacific and six from Cali surf. Swam in the Atlantic in Florida, just to get salt water wet, and have been hoping for a little spring swell on the Big Island in a couple of weeks.

But for present, the expectation was that I'd be on a trans-Atlantic flight today. Courtesy of mother nature in the guise of an Icelandic volcano, London is off for this week, and cancellation of my London trip was compensated by better than expected surf at the Park today.

My excuse the negative low tide at 6:45, but reality being the Eagles concert at the Hollywood Bowl last night, I got a late start south about 7:45.

Arriving at the Park at 9:00, a combination of South & NorthWest swells made for peaky, head-high surf in warming waters under sunny skies. Clean conditions combined with the rising tide to impel me into the water without pause.

A few sticks were spread around the main peak but only one down at LG1, which appeared to be just as consistent, so Hugh & I walked down there to swim out. For 90 minutes - as Mark and then Ciaccio came and joined us - we pretty much had free reign.

At one point, within just a few minutes of each other, I got two rights that started outside and held up all the way to close out on the sand. Looong rides on nice, open faces, the entire way in. Figured the tide was hitting stride and I'd found just the spot, but then no more followed....

Late in the session, I realized that the sticks had filled in around Mark, Rick and I, but, looking North, Hugh was virtually alone at the main peak. So the three of us swam back up and enjoyed sharing Main Peak with just a couple of surfers and a drifting boog.

Two-plus hours into the session, lulls were growing longer and thoughts drifted to food, when a well formed set, a couple of feet overhead, rolled in, bearing promise of more. Just Rick and I were left, but we extended another 45 minutes and were rewarded with several more of those sets.

Weary and satiated, I staggered out after about 2-3/4 hours.

After a rinse in the beach shower, I went back to the steps to take a few shots of the swell, and found that the Main Peak, which not long before we'd had quite to ourselves had fully filled in with sticks:
An incoming set now looked like rush hour:
Meanwhile, just a bit closer to the rocks separating main peak from LG1, a nice peak goes unridden:
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And the best part of yet another, as well:
The photos give a little impression of what was coming in this morning, but early, it was so much cleaner...and we had it all to ourselves.

Wonder what the weather's like in London?

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