The drought is over and summer lingers!
We found a surprisingly decent swell - waist to shoulder high, plus - with a glassy surface and warm (67) water in the Park on Sunday. It was best from 8:15 - 9:30, during which a pod of six - Neil "Real Deal" Frank, Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas, Russell "Riptide" Riopelle, Hugh "Huge" Berenger, local surfer morphing into bodysurfer Casey and I - had the Park ALL to ourselves. The fun sized waves had enough pitch, even on the Park smallies, for some decent tube time as we spread out around the main peak.
About 9:30, as the approaching high tide started swamping it out, creating a beach break only really suited for bodysurfing, five or six 'glass riders appeared but graciously continued to share the main peak with the encumbents of the body.
The warmer water, mild south swell, clear skies and building heat made it seem for all the world a quintessential summer day...entirely welcome to one who's been in dry dock since early August!!!
Words escape me, to convey how welcome it was to return to the womb, the water, the waves after the longest absence in many years. Ah...to be wet again!
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