To think I almost didn't go this morning!
Grey morning, too much to do, concern with a negative low tide at 9:00...but the cams looked decent at 6:00, so...the reward was an hour of the Park at its best.
When I arrived, it appeared a little lumpy but peaks were popping up from North of the Main Peak to South of LG 1:
I grabbed a ride out to the lineup in a rip tugging out just North of the rocks, then the current moving North set me right in the Main Peak at a time when most of the sticks had drifted North and were working their way back. Greeted Craig in the water and spotted a set coming.
My first wave may have been the best of the day...the best of 2011, so far, for me. A peak of about 10 feet loomed in front of me, with a bowling shoulder on the left. Dropped in and found myself on a large, soft-faced, slow-moving mound of water. A thick wave, and the size brought power, but the gradual slope of the face and the slow-peeling lip gave me time to twice cut back (well, at least insofaras a bodysurfer can) with a double-handed plane then dig back into the cut. As it moved inside, the wave steepened into a fast, pitching 7 foot face. Pulling into full, layout position, I had several seconds, covered up, clinging to the face, before a final closeout inside. That wave alone made a five star day.
My first wave may have been the best of the day...the best of 2011, so far, for me. A peak of about 10 feet loomed in front of me, with a bowling shoulder on the left. Dropped in and found myself on a large, soft-faced, slow-moving mound of water. A thick wave, and the size brought power, but the gradual slope of the face and the slow-peeling lip gave me time to twice cut back (well, at least insofaras a bodysurfer can) with a double-handed plane then dig back into the cut. As it moved inside, the wave steepened into a fast, pitching 7 foot face. Pulling into full, layout position, I had several seconds, covered up, clinging to the face, before a final closeout inside. That wave alone made a five star day.
From 8:00-9:00, there were 6-10 foot (face) peaks all over the place from above the Main Peak, continuously down to LG 1. Some crumbed and some of the sets closed out but most would open up into hollow walls with lots of tube time as many bowled in the inside. Craig was with his son Seth., who was carving up knee rides on a boog. Quite a few sticks, the two of us bodysurfing and a handful of boogs scattered across the crests in a morning filled with stoke, good vibes and plenty of fun rides for all, interrupted by occasional lulls.
The tide bottomed about 9:00, for an extended lull, then conditions slowly deteriorated from 9:30 - 11:00 as the sun came out and wind shifted.61/62 felt balmy in full suit. As the session ended, an exceptional spring morning spread across the beach...capstone to a truely exceptional Saturday Spring Session at SCSP.
1 comment:
hey Hank...stoked for you and the crew...looked like a stack of fun...that one left you're on is a beaut...envious you're coming into summer....our water is still warm but air is cooling, sliding into winter...
be well
richard s
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