Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Growing Swell on the Peninsula

Tuesday morning through Wednesday morning is evidencing growing swell here.  While the peak is due this afternoon and tomorrow (Thursday) morning, there were some serious forerunners in evidence today between 9:00 & 11:15 at 17th & 18th Streets.  With red flags flying, some thick, heavy closed out walls, some with faces approaching 10 feet, were arriving every 15 to 20 minutes.  Inside, swimming out, count on some significant hold-down time, even in 6 or 8 feet of water.

Fortunately, in between, there was a steady diet of 5 to 7 foot faces, still long interval with plenty of Newport juice, that weren't so closed out...some with broad, gaping tubes and others with corners for the patient.  Overcast skies over a glassy surface, the water temperature remains in the mid-60's.  

Yesterday, the morning session featured regular shoulder to head high waves, somewhat shorter interval, and some with decent corners for some longer slides.  Brent "Crawdaddy" Crawford drove up from Laguna and was waiting for us when Joe and I arrived about 8:30.  Mark Ghattas joined us a bit later for a short session before work.  For 2-1/2 hours, the conditions were good and we enjoyed a typical summer swell on the Newport peninsula. 

Both days, we worked between 17th and 18th, sharing it with a light crowd.

Yesterday afternoon, "straight across" from the Island, at 6th Street, the size had started to show, with some thicker, head-high plus grinders - walls that were fairly well chewed up by a steady West wind.  I got in alone, and was swept North five blocks in just 15 or 20 minutes.  But the wind created some fun opportunities.  Joe arrived as I walked back down from 9th street, and this time we were able to hold our position and work an area that had just enough of a corner to be able to drop in before the close out. 

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