Every so often, I get the opportunity to sneak in a morning session while on the road. I seem to be able to make that work more often in Del Mar than anywhere else, to the point that I've attained associate membership in the Del Mar Bodysurfing Club. I guess the main draw, in addition to the dedicated crew of bodysurfers, is a stretch of beach that's blackballed - reserved for bodysurfers - from 9:00 until late afternoon, every day, all year round.
Yesterday, I was able to wedge in a 90 minute session in fun, clean, moderate sized surf. The water was warm - 69 or 70 - and there was a nice, stomach to shoulder high swell coming in, with a few hollow tubes mixed in with crumblers. I was surprised not to find any of the DMBC crew out, but met Jonathan Foster, a local, talented, teenage bodysurfer and handplane shaper, along with Nate Barnes, a fledgling surf photographer/videographer. It's great to see some young, local talent developing!
Bodysurfer's Point of View
I took the GoPro out, but found that the set up, with the camera on my left wrist, only shot well on rights ... and, with the summer south swell, the day was mostly lefts. I did capture a couple of rights, though, including the shot above that offers a decent Point of View. Between the swell trailing off on the right and the view of shore, I kind of like it.
For those who prefer the video version - follow below!
PS - the surf highlight of this trip was my visit to the bodysurfing exhibit at the California Surf Museum in Oceanside:
Bill Schildge and Hal Handley did a fantastic job putting this together! I strongly encourage all to visit it between now and the end of the year. More photos of the exhibition:
Bodysurfing Exhibit at California Surf Museum
No comments:
Post a Comment