Checking South, 16th to 15th seemed to have more size & consistency, so I swam up that way and ran into Mark Ghattas and a couple of other bodysurfers. Eventually, Derrick Sciarra, who'd been taking a break on shore, joined us.
About 10, the sun came out and the size started filling in with the tide. Some nice, head high sets showed up, with the energy that Newport can deliver on a long interval (16 sec+) swell. Some excellent lefts were to be had.
Most memorable was after a lull, when it was a sheet of glass, almost to shore. First wave arrived, a smooth shoulder high bump with a nice left corner. After I dropped in and trimmed into the slot, the thick lip bowed over me, a fully illuminated sheet of shiny turquoise. Moments you live & surf for.
Stayed in the water until nearly noon, with a short break to feed the meter, but the magic time was from about 10 - 11. It was just why you come to the Newport peninsula to ride.
Mind blowing was the radical difference from one morning to the next. Hard to believe they even came within the same season as each other.
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