Summer Came Early

Other than 60 degree water, it seemed much more like a summer day in the Park: a moderate swell out of the Southwest, glassy through the morning and clear water on a warm and sunny morning.

I had figured to surf from 8 to 10, but ended up staying in a third hour. South at LG 1 seemed most consistent, so EY, Neil, Mark and I spread out there for a couple of hours while various of the tribe joined Crawdaddy as he filmed from shore: Ciaccio, Steve Short and Kahuna all showed for a bit. Sticks drifted through from time to time, but we had it largely to ourselves.

After a couple of hours, the others (in & out of the water) filtered off to breakfast at Cafe de Sole, but Mark and I stayed in another hour. As we gradually drifted the 1/4 mile back to the stairs, we were rewarded by one of the best sets of the day as we passed by the rock area.

Three memorable rides today:

EY was straight down the line as I took off on a shoulder-high left, offering a hi five. I rose on the face for a solid connection, then spun as I reached the lip and rolled down the face into the close out.

Second was a perfectly formed, big left. Taking off, I pushed to beat the foamball and took a high line onto a sloping, open face that gradually steepened. As it morphed, I dropped down into the mid-face slot and was rewarded with a little tube time before the close out.

Last, as we drifted back North, a nice, clean set off the rock offered another clean left, approaching head high...with no sticks!

I know Crawdaddy shot a lot today; will look forward to seeing if he got anything. Will post the line in my next post.

Meanwhile, here's the link to his memorial of EY's birthday, our frustration and the passing pod from last weekend.