One of the Wedge greats, Mel Thoman, 7/21/10
Shot by Hugh Berenger
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Wedge: Visitor and host
visiting brazilian bodysurfer rod bruno walks the wedge beach with legendary wedge bodysurfer kevin "mel" thoman
by Hugh Berenger
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Calif Bodysurfing Championships
Sunday were the California Bodysurfing Championships, hosted by the Golden Triangle at the San Clemente Pier during the Ocean Festival.
Steve "Too Tall" Short picked up the organizing responsibility from Eric EY_\ Yeisley and did a great job. I timed the competition and assisted Beachmaster Chuck "Kahuna" Herpick moving the heats along. We had a great turn out, a ton of stoke and were surprised by decent waves, which weren't forecast. It remained overcast through the morning but that was a nice respite from the humid heat of late, and kept it glassy for the competition.
All had much fun, but none more than Rod Bruno. I discussed Rod in the last blog. After flying up from his home in Brazil to brave the monsters at the Wedge on the weekend of the Fourth, Rod continued to Tahiti to try bodysurfing Teahoopu. Apparently, he didn't get the best conditions in Tahiti, but accomplished his mission then returned to Southern California to compete and medal in San Clemente.
Rod is a great ambassador for the sport, and his stoke is infectious. In the photo below, he's urging the younger generation at the competition to eschew their body boards, strap on fins and commit to bodysurfing. Received great response!
So, after the competition, and after 3 weeks in dry dock, I swam out with several of the competitors and judges to test out the ankle in fins again. Pretty tentative at first, in decently formed, shoulder-high surf, I got the water legs back in a short session before heading home. Looking forward to a full session, next weekend!
Steve "Too Tall" Short picked up the organizing responsibility from Eric EY_\ Yeisley and did a great job. I timed the competition and assisted Beachmaster Chuck "Kahuna" Herpick moving the heats along. We had a great turn out, a ton of stoke and were surprised by decent waves, which weren't forecast. It remained overcast through the morning but that was a nice respite from the humid heat of late, and kept it glassy for the competition.
All had much fun, but none more than Rod Bruno. I discussed Rod in the last blog. After flying up from his home in Brazil to brave the monsters at the Wedge on the weekend of the Fourth, Rod continued to Tahiti to try bodysurfing Teahoopu. Apparently, he didn't get the best conditions in Tahiti, but accomplished his mission then returned to Southern California to compete and medal in San Clemente.
Rod is a great ambassador for the sport, and his stoke is infectious. In the photo below, he's urging the younger generation at the competition to eschew their body boards, strap on fins and commit to bodysurfing. Received great response!
So, after the competition, and after 3 weeks in dry dock, I swam out with several of the competitors and judges to test out the ankle in fins again. Pretty tentative at first, in decently formed, shoulder-high surf, I got the water legs back in a short session before heading home. Looking forward to a full session, next weekend!
Friday, July 9, 2010
Wedge Works
I've focused this blog on my own bodysurfing adventures, but every so often it's worth turning to what's happening within the bodysurfing community of which I'm a part. In my last post, I mentioned the swell that hit the Wedge last weekend while I was sidelined by my ankle.
Well, I'm long past any thoughts of swimming out at the Wedge when it's breaking like this, preferring more forgiving breaks when it gets big, but I had friends in the water and others on the shore last weekend. I shared a couple of links last post, but decided to put this up, with a little more focus on the Wedge.
This is a shot by Hugh Berenger of a correspondence friend of ours, Rod Bruno. Click on photo for full size. (Used without permission; sorry Hugh)
Rod came up from Brazil, where he lives & surfs, and endeavored, quite successfully, to time his trip to coincide with a decent swell arriving in Southern California, especially the Wedge. Today, he's in Tahiti, but it's rainy and flat.
Hugh, the photographer of this shot, swam out after shooting this, and the other shots that can be seen at his SmugMug and his Flickr sites (click for links). Apparently, got a few good ones by being patient and choosy.
Also on shore Monday was Brent "Crawdaddy" Crawford, with his trusty video camera. He got some excellent clips of the action - a few before the blackball went up, then quite a few of the purists after it went up. Rod's in a couple, and I think I see Hugh in one. View his video by clicking here, or on the title of this post.
Well, I'm long past any thoughts of swimming out at the Wedge when it's breaking like this, preferring more forgiving breaks when it gets big, but I had friends in the water and others on the shore last weekend. I shared a couple of links last post, but decided to put this up, with a little more focus on the Wedge.
Rod came up from Brazil, where he lives & surfs, and endeavored, quite successfully, to time his trip to coincide with a decent swell arriving in Southern California, especially the Wedge. Today, he's in Tahiti, but it's rainy and flat.
Hugh, the photographer of this shot, swam out after shooting this, and the other shots that can be seen at his SmugMug and his Flickr sites (click for links). Apparently, got a few good ones by being patient and choosy.
Also on shore Monday was Brent "Crawdaddy" Crawford, with his trusty video camera. He got some excellent clips of the action - a few before the blackball went up, then quite a few of the purists after it went up. Rod's in a couple, and I think I see Hugh in one. View his video by clicking here, or on the title of this post.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Fluid Fireworks Fizzle on the Fourth ... 'cept at the Wedge
I was pretty discouraged by the prospect of a great swell coming through, on a holiday weekend no less, and being sidelined with the ankle sprain from last Saturday.
Improving, but nowhere near where I would it need to be to be out swimming in 10 foot surf, during the week I had visions of a long, warm, sunny weekend with large waves sweeping up the coast and the pod all coming up with "best of summer" experiences.
Then, unrelated to the swell, the cold & damp sweeps in and really messed it all up: cool, overcast, even drizzling. What were supposed to be calm mornings with mild offshores instead were characterized by steady onshore winds, the morning ocean surface already pocked with whitecaps.
When everything – swell size, direction & interval – is “right” for the Wedge, conditions don’t matter that much…it’s powerful enough to just push through it. And so it did on Saturday, as evidenced by the LA Times story, and photos by Hugh (at SmugMug and Flickr) and others. [click the links]
But elsewhere, it was pretty consistent reports of jumbled up, messy surf. Some found a few protected breaks, and reports from San Diego were much better, but my haunts - the Park, the peninsula - were just big, closed out, and choppy.
I guess I avoided the disappointment of scouring the coast, especially Monday morning, in anticipation of an epic session and finding slop instead!
Improving, but nowhere near where I would it need to be to be out swimming in 10 foot surf, during the week I had visions of a long, warm, sunny weekend with large waves sweeping up the coast and the pod all coming up with "best of summer" experiences.
Then, unrelated to the swell, the cold & damp sweeps in and really messed it all up: cool, overcast, even drizzling. What were supposed to be calm mornings with mild offshores instead were characterized by steady onshore winds, the morning ocean surface already pocked with whitecaps.
When everything – swell size, direction & interval – is “right” for the Wedge, conditions don’t matter that much…it’s powerful enough to just push through it. And so it did on Saturday, as evidenced by the LA Times story, and photos by Hugh (at SmugMug and Flickr) and others. [click the links]
But elsewhere, it was pretty consistent reports of jumbled up, messy surf. Some found a few protected breaks, and reports from San Diego were much better, but my haunts - the Park, the peninsula - were just big, closed out, and choppy.
I guess I avoided the disappointment of scouring the coast, especially Monday morning, in anticipation of an epic session and finding slop instead!
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Missin' It on the Fourth
The morning's LA Times contained a warning for beachgoers:
Big surf to hit Southern California beaches; public is warned about dangers
The big surf promised for some Southern California will begin to materialize Sunday morning.
It has prompted public warnings from surf experts and lifesaving officials -- especially for those less familiar with the rhythm and power of big surf.
The swells, formed by a large storm near New Zealand, will generate waves with faces of up to eight feet in height along south-facing beaches in San Diego, Orange, Los Angeles and Ventura counties, according to forecasters at Surfline.com. Large surf is expected to continue through Tuesday before tapering off.
...
The Southern Hemisphere swell will not hit all beaches equally. The South-facing beaches in San Diego and Orange counties will see the largest surf.
...
The swell is expected to create the typical summer spectacle at the Wedge, next to the mouth of the Newport Harbor. Body surfers will test their nerves and their necks on waves that can double in size after refracting off the rocks and then slamming onto the shallows or onto the sand. Forecasters project some sets at the Wedge could reach 15 feet.
Excerpts from Surfline this morning:
SOCAL on SUNDAY: New SSW groundswell is on the rise this morning with better South exposed breaks already picking up ...
Forecast Outlook:
MONDAY: New SSW groundswell tops out with chest-head high+ waves and sets running 2-3'+ overhead at top spots. ...
The swell chart is even more enticing:
But none for me...how frustrating is that?
Ankle is on the mend, but it's only been a week and the strength and stability is not there to swim out in any kind of surf. Here's to hoping that it's just the beginning of an active summer of swells!
Meanwhile, Crawdaddy's posted his video from last Saturday's well-attended Expression Session in the Park. No appearance for me, this time; I was already beached.
Big surf to hit Southern California beaches; public is warned about dangers
The big surf promised for some Southern California will begin to materialize Sunday morning.
It has prompted public warnings from surf experts and lifesaving officials -- especially for those less familiar with the rhythm and power of big surf.
The swells, formed by a large storm near New Zealand, will generate waves with faces of up to eight feet in height along south-facing beaches in San Diego, Orange, Los Angeles and Ventura counties, according to forecasters at Surfline.com. Large surf is expected to continue through Tuesday before tapering off.
...
The Southern Hemisphere swell will not hit all beaches equally. The South-facing beaches in San Diego and Orange counties will see the largest surf.
...
The swell is expected to create the typical summer spectacle at the Wedge, next to the mouth of the Newport Harbor. Body surfers will test their nerves and their necks on waves that can double in size after refracting off the rocks and then slamming onto the shallows or onto the sand. Forecasters project some sets at the Wedge could reach 15 feet.
Excerpts from Surfline this morning:
SOCAL on SUNDAY: New SSW groundswell is on the rise this morning with better South exposed breaks already picking up ...
Forecast Outlook:
MONDAY: New SSW groundswell tops out with chest-head high+ waves and sets running 2-3'+ overhead at top spots. ...
The swell chart is even more enticing:
But none for me...how frustrating is that?
Ankle is on the mend, but it's only been a week and the strength and stability is not there to swim out in any kind of surf. Here's to hoping that it's just the beginning of an active summer of swells!
Meanwhile, Crawdaddy's posted his video from last Saturday's well-attended Expression Session in the Park. No appearance for me, this time; I was already beached.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Respect for EY and the Park
Despite forecasts for only waist, maybe chest, high surf, in honor of the return to Colorado day for Eric " EY_\ " Yeisley, founding core member of the Golden Triangle (our San Clemente State Park bodysurfing tribe), we put out the call:
Thou who art dry of gill, come forth and moisten thy piscine lungs
Ye who walk lonely upon the earth come bask in the sea of brotherhood.
Thou who are waning of spirit, drink in the living aura of Gaia
Come ye all, emerse thyselves in the water and emerge freshed and with energy
Ye of the body are called to the Park. Smallies await ye.
Expectations for surf were modest, but the Park really delivered!
Upon arrival, a fairly stiff South wind, grey skies and cool air made it seem much more like winter, but there several swells showing good height, regularly into the head high range, and the wind didn't seem to be messing it up too much. Eric had arrived, with Joanna and a box of pastry. Crawdaddy, Neil and Hugh were checking it out. Tim "Hacksaw" Hankins pulled in, having driven in from Phoenix, and his friend Mike from Strands joined us. Kahuna stopped by to pay respects but had to take off. Paul Tordella came down from South Bay with John Rogers.
After short debate over whether the wind was a problem, the tribe donned gear ranging from board shorts, to spring suits, to full suits and walked up by LG1 where the break was totally empty. Water was a still warm 68 and the first few waves showed that the mixture of swells would have no problem pushing through the wind for long rides over the textured surface.
Mark "Scrudz" Johnson from Huntington Beach's Chubasco showed, along with Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas. Near the end, Jeff "JPL" Lashbrook swam out.
Gradually, the wind relaxed through the morning and the touch of morning sickness cleared for a solid Park morning. Shoulder and head high peaks, some plusses, gave the pod a perfect stage on which to showcase the skills and variety of talent while the SC lifeguards watched. EY_\ was cleaning up the inside as usual...wave after King's Corner wave...spinner upon spinner.
For over two hours, we had the stretch from the rocks south to beyond LG1 much all to ourselves...just 15 heads in the water with plenty to go around. Quite an impressive showing for EY and his devotion to the Park.
Unfortunately, early in the session, I rolled my ankle pretty bad on a shallow rock on a close out - came down on the edge of the flat, submerged rock, then slid off, ripping the hip of my spring suit and leaving a few long, bleeding scratches along my wrist, hand and arm...looks like I've been donating at SUROL!
At first, I unsuccesfully tried continuing with the fin on, then switched to a single fin but that wasn't working in the deep water and fast swell. I finished out with both fins but favoring the side.
Wished I'd been able to take as much advantage as others of an excellent morning in the Park!
Thou who art dry of gill, come forth and moisten thy piscine lungs
Ye who walk lonely upon the earth come bask in the sea of brotherhood.
Thou who are waning of spirit, drink in the living aura of Gaia
Come ye all, emerse thyselves in the water and emerge freshed and with energy
Ye of the body are called to the Park. Smallies await ye.
Expectations for surf were modest, but the Park really delivered!
Upon arrival, a fairly stiff South wind, grey skies and cool air made it seem much more like winter, but there several swells showing good height, regularly into the head high range, and the wind didn't seem to be messing it up too much. Eric had arrived, with Joanna and a box of pastry. Crawdaddy, Neil and Hugh were checking it out. Tim "Hacksaw" Hankins pulled in, having driven in from Phoenix, and his friend Mike from Strands joined us. Kahuna stopped by to pay respects but had to take off. Paul Tordella came down from South Bay with John Rogers.
After short debate over whether the wind was a problem, the tribe donned gear ranging from board shorts, to spring suits, to full suits and walked up by LG1 where the break was totally empty. Water was a still warm 68 and the first few waves showed that the mixture of swells would have no problem pushing through the wind for long rides over the textured surface.
Mark "Scrudz" Johnson from Huntington Beach's Chubasco showed, along with Mark "Sailfish" Ghattas. Near the end, Jeff "JPL" Lashbrook swam out.
Gradually, the wind relaxed through the morning and the touch of morning sickness cleared for a solid Park morning. Shoulder and head high peaks, some plusses, gave the pod a perfect stage on which to showcase the skills and variety of talent while the SC lifeguards watched. EY_\ was cleaning up the inside as usual...wave after King's Corner wave...spinner upon spinner.
For over two hours, we had the stretch from the rocks south to beyond LG1 much all to ourselves...just 15 heads in the water with plenty to go around. Quite an impressive showing for EY and his devotion to the Park.
Unfortunately, early in the session, I rolled my ankle pretty bad on a shallow rock on a close out - came down on the edge of the flat, submerged rock, then slid off, ripping the hip of my spring suit and leaving a few long, bleeding scratches along my wrist, hand and arm...looks like I've been donating at SUROL! At first, I unsuccesfully tried continuing with the fin on, then switched to a single fin but that wasn't working in the deep water and fast swell. I finished out with both fins but favoring the side.
Wished I'd been able to take as much advantage as others of an excellent morning in the Park!
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